Interesting moves up short faces, separated by ledges. 

  Basically .. climb eight feet right from the dihedral / V-chimney route the whole way up. Start up the face to the right of obvious tree whose bottom is about six feet up off from the ground. Next aim up to just right of the obvious higher tree and up a short steep face. Next up a ways to the face about five feet right from below the cap stone, and up that to finish. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Raskolnikov's Duality

Rachel’s Obsession

Anna’s Transformation

Megan’s Disappearance

Mephistopheles

Tonio Kröger's duality

Faust

Hans the Nordic Boy

Consuelo from the South

Margarete

Interesting moves up short faces and corners, separated by ledges. 

  Basically .. climb three feet right from the dihedral / V-chimney route the whole way up. Start to the right of the dihedral / V-chimney. Next aim up to just left of the obvious tree (easier if deviate right along the way), and up the inside corner which forms the R side of the overhanging bulge. Next up a ways to just R of below the cap stone. Some delicate moves rising left 4-5 feet, then up to the top just L of the cap stone. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful face climbing. 

  Straight up, staying L of big tree, and not using the ramp to the left. 

  name? Character in intricate 2016 England train story. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Some thoughtful face moves, but rather short for a roped climb. 

  Straight up staying just barely right of big tree. Use the tongue of rock at bottom of high vertical crack -- after testing it -- (this climb will be very different if/when that breaks). 

  name? Character in intricate 2016 England train story. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Not very sustained in difficulty. 

  Up the corner -- tree is on - (extra points if don't use it) - (lots more points if don't even touch it). Up left on the ramp, and find the most interesting way to the top. 

  name? Character in intricate 2016 England train story. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting moves first in a narrow dihedral or chimney, then over a bulge, then up a face. 

  Start straight up the dihedral / V-chimney (hint: more fun if stay toward outside, not "get buried" in it). Up a ways to the center of the overhanging bulge. Up a ways to the final face -- take this 3-5 feet left of the cap stone. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting outdoor moves. 

  Up the chimney. 

  name? Character in 1903 novella. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting moves up short faces separated by ledges. 

  Basically .. climb three feet left from the dihedral / V-chimney route the whole way up. Start just left of the dihedral / V-chimney (arete is "on"). Up a ways to the center of the overhanging bulge. Delicate moves starting up left side of bulge, then over its top. Up a ways to the final face -- take this 6-8 feet left of the cap stone.  

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Up the face to the wide ledge above. 

  name? Character in 1903 novella. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting moves on hidden holds. 

  Up the face using the arete which forms the outside left edge of chimney. 

  name? Character in 1903 novella. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Three of shelves of rock each 7-15 feet high, separated by ledges. 

  Adjacent left (W) down from The Good Book wall. Below the Top Shelf sector. Just right (E) of Crazy Tree sector.   Faces mainly SSW. 

Top Rope: access to top of routes -- One way is to hike uphill Right (ENE) along base of cliff to the left (W) end of The Good Book sector, then turn sharp Left and walk carefully, with some scrambling moves, roughly horizontal, on a narrow ledge with some exposure.   But ...    if each climber is lowered on the rope after climbing up, there will be significant abrasion of the rope from it running over the edges of the ledges. And the obvious way to hike / scramble from the top back down to the bottom has an exposed section. So need some creative maneuvering to get both the climber and the end of the rope back down - (or just accept the abrasion). 

names of routes: The names follow the approach of the names near the adjacent left end of The Good Book wall, which come from the great American novel, Moby Dick, by Herman Melville. Except this sector modifies that scheme to base the names on a significant European book. So the idea is to use actions or characters or quotes from a significant book of Europe (including the UK), but without actually giving the title or author. Usually you can find the name of the book by doing a web search on the route name, or names from multiple routes side-by-side, or perhaps together with a hint from the Description of the route. 

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5.1 The Shelves