This route provides a fun diversion from the climbing at Ibex. The rock is mostly very good and the route protects well.

Pitch 1: Climb the crack system using a variety of techniques up to a thin section, clip a bolt and a piton and scamper to a belay alcove with 1 bolt. A second bolt is above the belay a short distance. Otherwise the 1 bolt can be backed up with small cams. 5.9 25m.

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt and climb up the dihedral until it seems blockier and loose. You can now Belay on a fairly nice ledge with a new bolt and ring pin. 5.8, 20m.

Pitch #3: A few glue in bolts have been added here to enable avoiding the rubble in the dihedral and climb more solid rock to the left. This allows a much more exciting and better protected finish on solid rock. After the last bolt, scramble the short distance to the top and find a two bolt belay on a flat rock. 5.7/8, 20m.

Descent: Walk off to the north and down through a break in the cliffband.

Through the Never

Starboard

This bolted climb sails up the vast blank canvas on the West Face of Steamboat. Unlike Through The Never, few cracks on the starboard side of Steamboat are available.

Pitch #1: Follow the bolt line up the vertical and sustained "Starboard" side. Ends at a small ledge with a 3 bolt belay. 5.10, 35m.

Pitch #2: Trend up and right to a ledge bypassing a huge block firmly seated on the ledge, then trend back left up a more broken up section. Sharp rock! Tape may be indicated. Two bolt belay in an alcove. 5.10, 15m.

Pitch #3: Pass a small overhang and scramble to the top of the wall. 5.8, 15m.

The first pitch is equipped for rappel. After that, it seems easier and safer to walk off the top as for Through The Never is recommended if climbing the entire route. Pitches #2 and #3 may be easily linked, but communication may be difficult.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Steamboat Pass