Killer route, and full-on after the first bolt.  Technical stemming and smearing, with big reaches between generally small but positive holds.  Tenuous and thoughtful climbing, with multiple .11+/.12- cruxes.

Superstitious

Dizzy Dial

Native Rights

Baby Grey Whale

Whale Nation

Dirty Thoughts

California Coastline (Free)

We've all wondered if California Coast would go free, right? Well, finally after four years of dreaming, it finally does! The route is only a top rope, as you can only get three pieces of gear in the whole climb if you were to lead it. This route is all about conserving your energy while on the 5.12 to leave enough gas in the tank for the incredible 5.13a fun near the top. I've referred to this upper section as the coolest sequence of crimps I've ever seen, and I'll gladly stick by that. The whole route is extremely technical from the ground to the top, and any mistake down low builds later at the top. It may be just a top rope, but it is a very worthy and rewarding project!

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The route is best visualized in three sections.

- First third heads rightward on the slab to a short technical sequence that lands you on a nice jug (5.12a) with a huge pendulum swing potential.

- Second third climbs the crack as it cuts back left (5.12b) and finishes on a big jug rail.

- Third part is the business. Hopefully you saved up your energy! The crack squeezes down too thin for fingers, so instead do a 15' leftward downclimb and traverse to another jug, then power through the slightly overhanging 25' headwall crux. The crux is relentless with tiny crimps, technical beta, two monos and two very difficult deadpoints.

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Amazing route with cool high steps and lock-offs.  Starts with slab then continues up the slightly overhanging headwall following a crack system.  Classic!

Cruxes at the beginning and end of a mostly-hands crack.  Pull a small bulge, romp up through easier terrain, then finish in the slightly awkward, leaning dihedral. Surprisingly good.  May have some vegetation if not climbed recently.

Around the corner from Superstitious is a short toprope that follows a few bulges. The anchors bolts are oddly placed as if the route was originally intended to have lead bolts. Rappel from the tree above to get down to the bolts.

Update: This is actually an 11a, named Baby Grey Whale by the first ascentionists. It was intended to be a three bolt lead climb. They left a fixed line up and stashed their drill, but all was stolen by the next day.

Balancy slab on bomber rock with nice edges. Finishes halfway up the wall. Whale Nation Continuation (5.12c TR) can be set up at the top of the cliff.

Steep, left leaning, tips and fingercrack. The name came from the amount of dirt that filled this awesome route, which took hours of scrubbing to clean! Starts with super technical, funky laybacking up a sloping ramp to reach the base of the crack, followed by long lockoffs between solid locks with bad feet. When you reach where the crack becomes filled with bushes, step right on to a well protected face topped by a cruxy bulge. Rap off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pacific Ocean Cliff