P1. From the east side follow an angling third class sidewalk-like ramp along the south side of the tower. Near the end of the ramp it turns steep with a 5.0 move to step up onto a small ledge and set a belay with gear. The ledge is out of the fall zone for the next pitch. It’s also an easy pitch to solo. P2. Expect some rock fall. Step right and down to get back to the crack that leads to the notch where summit splits- the last spot for good pro. From the notch go up the last 20’ on the loose steps on the left. Sling the top of the tower for a belay. Bring about 30’ of sling to set a rappel for descent.

Love at First Glans

This is the smaller more phallic tower to the north of Grandstaff Tower. Made in the same fashion with a soft sandstone base and a crumbly conglomerate top. Another excellent feature to practice climbing choss.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Halfstaff Tower