A classic to end all classics!  High and spicey, Breadloaf arete is a must-do problem at Governor Stable.  Start low on the arete of the giant boulder that looks like a breadloaf i guess, and make delicate moves toward an exciting finish.  Not to be missed!

Breadloaf Arete

Vulture

Knead It

Doughboy

Party Right

Pop 'N Fresh

Bread Slab

Ungreased

Quickie

Breadloaf Arete Traverse

Bisquack

Yeast

Keg Stand

Slap Me

Demi loaf

Bread Box

Bread crumbs

Soul Face

Cobra

Start in the center of the wide, tall Breadloaf boulder face on top of the rock at the base near a tree.  Pull onto the rock and traverse rightwards along a horizontal crack with decent edges.  After eight feet or so, climb into the sloping crimp crux of the Breadloaf arete, then finish up the standard problem.

In the corridor downhill from Cobra is a 20 degree overhanging face.  Enter the corridor from the Huck face around and right of Juggernaut.  Pull onto two thin crimps at head height.  Get a foot onto a small chip and snatch a slanting one pad crimp with the left hand.  Move up into a large right facing sidepull flake with the right hand and then mantel easily with the aid of jug at the lip.  There is a tall steep slab paralleling this overhang with a horizontal shelf near the bottom.  The landing is precarious in a narrow slot corridor.  It is a poor landing, so bring a good spotter or two and pads.

Harder than it looks, sit start with good holds and huge foot ledge.  Make a couple hard moves to good holds, then bust up for the juggy lip and make a fun topout.

Stand Start on a three finger left hand crimp and a small right hand crimp, either dyno or pull on small crimps to grab the lip.

Party Right starts in the same place as the problem Keg Stand (V2).  Begin by jumping to a large flat jug from standing on a flat rock.  Campus traverse leftwards along a steep wall with poor feet and hands working good edges on "elephant skin" rock features.  Gain the arete/apex and then engage the crux.  Heel hook the right foot on or near the starting jug hold, and then make an insecure and slightly frightening mantel with the left hand meat-wrapping the corner.  There is not really a hold for the right hand on the blank bulge.  Balance and rock up hard and high on the right heel hook perch to reach the sloping lip with the right hand.  Breathe and top out.  This is a challenging problem for the grade but is well worth it.  It is a steep face on good holds which is a rarity on diabase.

This short problem will catch your eye.  Sit start and paw the arete.  Think about it, reposition, pull, and go for the lip!  A novelty problem at its finest.

Walk up this nice little slab.  This would be a great problem for a first time climber.  It is secure and fun.

Ungreased is a neat little steep slab with smeary feet and some cool subtle handholds.  It would be a perfect problem for a rank beginner, but even I find it very enjoyable.  The movement is sublime, with great rock quality and incredible friction.

Great little one move wonder on the boulder in front of Cobra.  Sit start on two sharp crimps, figure out your feet, and fire for the lip.

Bisquack is the acute corner crack that is formed by the intersection of the Doughboy's Throne boulder on the right (containing the leftward traverse Yeast) and the smaller boulder to the left (containing the rightward traverse Knead It).  Start low and climb the corner crack then top out.

Another awesome GS traverse on small holds.  Start on the far right side of the boulder just down the hill from the Breadloaf boulder and traverse left, topping out just as you run into another boulder on your left (that one's off).

Keg Stand starts off of a raised flat boulder at the base.  Hop up to a flat two handed jug hold if you are of normal height (or grasp it with your feet planted if you are very tall) and work up a short bulge to the lip and top out.

Sit start using opposing crimps, slap with the right hand to a sloper, then move up to the crimps and mantle.

Bread Box climbs the narrow face that is left of the main, tall Breadloaf boulder face.  It begins with hands in a rectangular slot feature at chest level (the bread box).  A loaf of bread would fit perfectly into this starting hold.  Climb up the vertical face using crimps to reach knobs near the lip and then mantel.

Reach up to the jug and top out from there. 

This project will climb the center of the tall face on the downstream side of the Breadloaf boulder.  This tall, alluring face has been contemplated by every visitor to the Stables, since the late 1970's or early 1980's I would imagine.  It is the most obvious project at all of Governor Stables, partly due to it's proximity to the entrance, and also the fact that it is the proudest line on one of the best boulders.   

  Start off of the flat rock at the base.  Begin on the good holds in the horizontal crack.  Move up to a solitary sidepull, then somehow span the five or six foot blank vertical face to the top of the boulder.  The only feasible way to work this project would be with a top rope, because it is a tall boulder.  The grade is merely a guess, as I had to put something to enter this into the database.  The problem does not seem that hard upon first glance, but believe me, it is a very long reach from the good sidepull to the lip of the boulder, and it is very sloping as well.  Someday, someone very tall may complete this problem.  This is one of the last great projects at Governor Stables.

Cobra is widely regarded as one of the best problems at Governor Stable.  Ignore the scary landing and give it a burn, you won't be disappointed.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Breadloaf & Immediate Vicinity