A little gritty with some crumbly rock in the middle, but pretty fun. It arcs left.

Cowboy Coffee

Reprimanda

Hamburger Helper

Soy Beefcake

Schadenfreude

Demanda

True Grit

Today We Climb...Tomorrow We Die!

Powder Monkey

Bareback

Blue Shadows

Cowboy Up

Ned Flies a Stick

Cheap Sunglasses

Powder Monkey Extension

Pale Rider

Pitch Fork

Yosemite Sand

Cheap Whiskey

Toy Gun Show

Code of the West

Smart Cowboy

This route is in two pitches because of the very large ledge in the middle. P1 is 11a, P2 is about the same, but the route is significantly harder because of rope drag if you link the two pitches. If you do link the pitches, consider skipping clipping the anchor.

This is the extension to Soy Beefcake; goes up the headwall above the anchor. It's a bit crumbly above the ledge with the anchors, but the climbing above that is fun.

Sort of climbs the left arete of the short face on the right side of Walt's Wall; the crux of the climb is kind of off-balance, and if you climb it straight on rather than using the features to the left, it's likely to seem harder. If you keep going past the anchors, you're doing the "Hamburger Helper" extension.

The crux is in the middle and is quite reachy. Probably 12a if you're under 5'8' and easier than 11 if you're over 6'. Sneaky climbing right off the ground.

Has a crux down low, and then has pretty fun, rambly climbing. This route is kind of squeezed in with Pitchfork and Pale Rider, and about a third of the way up all three routes converge. Stick with the middle line if you want the climbing to stay at 5.9.

Put up your Dukes! Tricky as a snake in the grass, pardner. And, as the name implies, gritty, at least in the lower half of the route.

Fun 5.10 to the first anchor set, and some wicked 12a moves off the ledge to the second anchor set.

Grab the right side of the arete up high. The crux is right in the middle, on tiny edges.

Blue Shadows is a decent route up beautiful and smooth rock. Start up in the corner/trough that is the start of Cheap Whiskey and clip a high first bolt with beige hanger well to the right of the corner crack. Pull the steep move past the bolt and scramble up and left on 4th class terrain to a big ledge. A small or medium cam could possibly protect this scramble but it's easy terrain on good rock.  

  From the ledge, reach up to clip a bolt and pull up onto the horizontal.  Figure out the best way to move, left or right on side pulls, on bullet, smooth faces between good horizontal stances to the anchors just below the big roof above.  This route is probably more difficult for shorter climbers. 

  If you're just getting warmed up by the time you reach the anchor, keep going for four more bolts above into Ned Flies a Stick. This extension is quite fun. 

youtube.com/watch?v=4HdlYVK…

Being taller than 5'9" helps you up this one. Amazing climbing up dishes on bullet rock. The bolts are spaced out a bit more than on some of the other routes, so be careful.

An extension to Blue Shadows. Once you reach the anchor on Blue Shadows, clip a draw to the left chain (to reduce drag later) and continue up and left. Getting to a couple of good underclings leading to a great side pull is the crux. Then bust through the roofish-feature involving a couple steep moves.  Once above the roof, continue up on the slab to the anchor.  

  Ned Nederlander flew a Tuppan-601 plane in Little Neddy Goes to War. 

 

Tricky all the way up, with the crux at the top. Has SS glue-in bolts. Bolts are spaced out a little more than some of the other routes. The first route to go in here (2004).

Climb the 5.10 version of Powder Monkey up to the mid-anchors, get a rest and power thru the harder crimp moves past a fixed draw to the higher anchors.

The crux is at the top, on the slab, clipping the anchors. This route is best done as a lead-follow because it starts on the arete and sort of curves around. Lowering off and to clean your draws creates a great deal of drag and a bit of a swing as you near the ground.

Shoots for a white dihedral, then goes up over a small roof. Fun climbing with good air potential at the roof. The upper slab has proven to be the crux for a few folks.

Winds its way up and left, ending up on an upper arete. A bit sandy, as implied.

A bit dirty but with a pretty fun roof at the top. Go right at the roof to the chains.

The crack that splits the middle of the Spaghetti Western Wall. One of the best hard crack lines around. A bolt protects the first crux and keeps you off a ledge, and a couple more help you through the slab to the rest of the crack. Don't stop at the Cowboy Up anchors; keep going to the second set at the top.

Tricky climbing. Climb smart to keep it 5.10.  The crux comes pulling off the ledge half way up, into the shallow left leaning dihedral.

This wall is predominantly vertical and offers a good variety of climbing in more moderate grades than the Monster Wall. Watch for loose rock and expect some grit.   

  The climbs are numbered from right to left, to coincide with the               

Overview of the Spaghetti Western Wall area as of summer 2008.       .

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spaghetti Western Wall