Follow the lower slab/crack of Community Garden to an obvious bulge. Follow the hand crack straight up before stemming your way through a wide corner to an alder. Take small nuts and/or micro-cams to protect the seam in the corner. Abseil 25 meters off slung flake or continue up another 5 meters to a slung alder. 

Private Garden (Community Garden direct)

Dorsal Morsel

Jaw Cheval

Jaw Dropper

Gobstopper

Jawsomer

Super-Arete

Lockjaw

Jawsome

Community Garden

Roots Rock Reggae

Voyagejaw

Jaw Breaker

Scamble over a fallen tree to a crack and shallow corner system that switches from right to left facing. Crux is topping out the second corner. Traverse rightward about fifteen feet past a weak alder near the top to more solid alder anchors.

The alpine feel of this ridge is a nice break from the steep climbing you performed to access it. Save a bar for the top, the view calls for a small picnic.Climb Lockjaw, Voyagejaw, or Jaw Dropper to gain the Lockjaw P4 anchors.P1: Climb the ridge past bolts and small cam placements to the next major ledge system, belay at far end of the ledge. 5.7 trad with boltsP2: Climb the steep face past bolts to another ledge, then climb the exposed arete. If you get tired of being on your feet up high just act like you're riding Sean's zodiac. Or a French horse. 5.10, a few bolts, barely any trad placements.Descend the ridge to the Lockjaw rap

P1 - The climb that started Jaw Man gold rush. Prominent right facing corner to top of buttress, start from Jaw Dropper ledge. 50m 5.10 There is an intermediate rap anchor to climbers left of P1 so you can rap from the top of P1 back to Jaw dropper ledge with a single 60m rope.P2 - Climb the  scruffy right trending crack above  the anchor to a left trending ramp to a trimmed evergreen. Climb the slab past a bolt to join the final moves of Voyagejaw and the lockjaw P4 anchors. 40m 5.9

 

Climb two pitches, Lockjaw P1 and Voyagejaw P1 to access the belay.Follow the bolts on the arete to the right of Jawbreaker corner, clip 3 bolts in easier terrain before a relentless 30 foot boulder problem on the arete that ends at the Jawbreaker P1 anchors

The Jawsome slab extension for bonus points. Climb past the Jawsome anchor and 5 more bolts to the anchor below the small triangle roof. Once you realize there are no feet the feet are everywhere.

Start up the Jawsomer extension to the triangle roof, then continue through steep overlaps to access the blank arete above. Float the arete to the top of the 3rd pitch of Lockjaw.

P1: 5.10 Start at only continuous patch of clear rock accessible from the JM trail. Begin up a 5.6 slab, pull a couple vertical moves, and arrive at the intermediate ledge. Move slightly right to a shallow steep corner, climb corner until a bolt is visible on your left moving left onto face at the bolt. Climb past two more bolts and a roof to finish. 5.10, (3) bolts, small trad rackP2: Move left from the belay into a corner system, climb the corner system until the first bolt is visible on your right moving right onto an arete slab. Climb the slab past several more bolts to the anchor. 5.10,  (4-5) bolts, small trad rackP3: Climb the obvious thin splitter crack. Incredibly fun climbing, you can't get lock jaw when you're smiling this much. 5.12a,  (4) bolts, doubles 0.1 - #1, single #2P4: Climb this sport pitch past several techy boulder problems to easier slab romp to the anchors. Don't pull out or break off the credit-card sized rock sticking out at the upper crux, we'll all need to use this key hold for years to come... 5.12b, entirely boltedRap P4, then the super-arete and Jawesome, then P1

Climb the bolted arete directly above the 1st pitch of lockjaw. 

Start up relatively clean right facing corner and follow crack until you reach steep bulge. At bulge trend right following shallow underclings that lead to solid alders for anchors. This can be broken into two smaller pitches to reduce drag once in alders. Repel (30m) on webbing above direct route. 

Enough with the jaw names already.climb the first pitch of Lockjaw to accessP1 - Break hard right from the top of the 1st pitch of lockjaw to a slabby corner. Climb corner past bolts and up to a funky mantle. Pull the mantle and finish in a techy dihedral. End at the base of the Jawbreaker corner. 5.10+, sport except for final easy moves in dihedral are trad protected. (13) bolts  30mP2 - An extended voyage up to the right side of the major roof looming overhead. Moves are surprisingly easy for the steepness. Start up the  Jawbreaker corner for 30 feet past one bolt on the left hand face, then break left at the 2nd bolt onto the arete with some acrobatic moves to enter a flake system that carries you to the top past flake jugs, roofs, bolts, and the occasional crimp. Finish in a sinker handcrack to the anchor. 5.11-, mixed sport trad, (14) bolts. 50mP3 - A shorter voyage to the top of the buttress to join the Lockjaw P4 anchor, climb past (5) bolts pulling 5.7 move after move. Link this pitch with P4 to avoid the hanging belay. 10mDescend via the Lockjaw rap route

Climb the steep corner on the left side of the major roof above the start of lockjaw. Access via the first pitch of lockjaw.P1: Needs to be cleaned still! Alternate access via Jawsomer. Start up the corner between Jawsome and the 2nd pitch of lockjaw, climbing cracks and corners to the bolted belay at the small triangle roof below the main corner system. The anchor is also the Jawsomer extension anchor. 5.10 tradP2: Climb the right facing corner system past laybacks, stems, a juggy roof, and more stemming. End at the 2nd anchor of Voyagejaw. 5.11 trad

Now a 2-pitch route that takes you to the top of the buttress!Access via P1 Lockjaw then P1 of Voyagejaw.P1 Classic - Climb the right facing corner above the belay ledge to the anchors at the end of the corner. Rap the route. 30m 5.10P1 Extended - Clip the bolt on the left side of the corner and depart the corner for the arete a body length before the classic anchor. Climb the arete a short ways to a layback crack leading to an anchor at a ledge.  40m 5.10P2 - Climb the crack above the anchor to another ledge with an evergreen on it, climb the slabs on the left side of the ledge past bolts to reach the top of the buttress and the P4 Lockjaw anchors. 20m 5.9Rappel as per Lockjaw for the multipitch option.

Technical and sporty off-vertical granite climbing. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Jaw Man Zone