Another excellent line to add to the 4/5 gully ticklist. Start in left crack and make the balancy transition into the lieback crack to the right. Gear is hard to place in the beginning. Keep it together for the crux at the end. Stay left, aiming for the webbing belay/rap anchor.

Devious Nature

Snake Hipped Mistress

A wildly exposed arete that Shaffer regrets not finishing. He had 95% of the route complete. Tony and I were able to finish the route without adding any bolts. This line is hard right off the belay, especially gaining the fourth bolt (bad fall potential). After the fifth, go left around corner into crack. Place some gear then three bolts lead to the redpoint crux. Find a small RP placement and exit right to the anchors.

Tall and obvious spire of the 4/5 gully. First ascended by the Conns and Jack Ernst on Aug. 20th, 1953.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Broken Point