One of the classics; if not the funnest of the Gap routes. A few mixed pitches brings one to the midsdle of the prominent prow in the center of the face. Climb steep 5.7 jugs(mixed) for a couple pitches and finish on easy mixed terrian which puts you right on the summit. Exposed, fun and as with all gap routes, unique.

Alpine Simulator

East Ridge

Aiguille route

Fear machine

Located to the right(west) of the ice climb is a steep pyramid of rock approx 350ft tall; the Aiguille traverses in from thewest on mod snow and ascends the center of the pyramid. From the top of this a couple of easy mixed pitches leads to a short section of WI 3 ice. At the top another pitch of moderate mixed brings one to the big arching roof which is approx. 35ft long. Traverse into the roof and acrross through some intense traditional mixed climbing (M6+). a short pitch of moderate mixed brings one to the summit. A super classic route anywhere!

It's fun and easy. You can make this route a little more difficult by taking the steepest line, or you can make it easy and skirt around the harder stuff. Staying to the right of the ridge will generally keep you in the more exciting terrain versus the easier left side. Simul climbing the route will significantly speed things up as a lot of the route is low 5th class and finishes on 4th class. Just make it up as you go!

To date the most core of the gap routes. Good rock and stimulating & creative climbing make this an extremely rewarding route. Falling on this route as with all gap routes is definately not in your best interest. Completeing any of these routes is extremely rewarding but this one is super rewarding.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Side