London Arete is another great route by Ben! The line take the obvious overhanging arete left of "

Intercontinental

" with an obvious crux bulge. It is bouldery and powerful with super fun sequences. The only detractor is that it seriously leaves you wanting more. Some feel it's stout for the grade, and it won't disappoint. This is very worth doing!

London Arete

Shotgun Piñata

Arco Arena

For the People

Intercontinental

Premonition aka Lauren's  Overhang

Alley Cat

Fourier Transform

The Funnel

Buddha Belly

Nathan's Arete

From the right end of the fixed line, this line takes the right line of bolts, angling right and ending at the chains hanging at the highest point of the crag.

Start off the right end of the fixed line, following the left line of bolts. This route gets progressively harder, transitioning from jugs to crimps and culminating in a sharp, powerful, and possibly dynamic crux to get past the anchors before you can clip them.

This is a well-bolted and safe route, although the last two clips are somewhat tough since you're in the crux. I had my belayer belay from the ground and started from the fixed line on the ledge.

This is a short climb overcoming the bulge about 10 feet up finishing with 25 feet of easy class 3 slab.

This stellar line takes the center of the detached pillar forming a small cave on the left side of the cliff. This short but truly beautiful line incorporates a variety of technical moves on bullet hard stone. It is very photogenic and sustained the entire way. This route was originally given 5.10c, but it feels a little softer than that, so tell me if I am wrong.

Start just left above the right traversing fixed line. Make big moves to awesome jugs up to the start of the crack. Then left foot on a pinky nail sized pebble and high right drop-knee to set up for the crux move to a hidden crimp-jug with your right. This route was originally given 5.11b but feels a little softer.

Sequential and sustained crimping gets you to jugs at the anchors. This is well bolted, but an attentive belay is still necessary due to the boulder behind.

From the ground at The Plebian Wall, this takes the second from the right line up whiter stone and finishes on the right side of the apex of the wall.

This route is around the corner to the right of the main wall

Start by stepping over an overlap on some long reaches but with good holds that make the move fairly straightforward. Then you are in the real crux of the route which is a shallow dihedral/groove in which delicate footwork, stemming, slopping, and pinching allow you to work up to an upper bulge and another overlap.

This is delicate, intricate, and fun. The style is a great change of pace for the wall!

If this is your route, please update anything here. I just enjoyed it, so I thought I'd share. Thanks for the hard work bolting this area!

A bolted boulder problem, this climbs through the overhang from the ground to the bolts at the right end of of the fixed line. Link this after the ledge with

Arco Arena

or

Shotgun Piñata

for a 5.12d or 5.13a line.

This has some funky, fun climbing up through several overhangs. Two of the roof moves feel like topping out a boulder problem and made me smile. The crux is more technical than the rest of the climb, and it made me try twice, it comes up high at the last bolt. It could use a little more traffic to clean up better, but all the necessary holds were clean and felt solid. Why am I complaining about a little dirt, the friction is great on these newish routes? I think all the Nathans out there should climb this arete.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Plebian Wall