Start up the same middle arete feature as for Shaking...Chimp.  Keep working up and right along this line to an obvious long move to a protruding jug.

Kingsbury Non-Alcoholic Arete

Kingsbury Cruise

Shaking Hands With The Chimp

Donkey On My Mind

High Traverse

Laser Beam

Wet Paper Bag

One of the few .13s to be lead at the Lake. Dave’s gear consisted of two wires and filed down TCU to make the unit fit the placement. An inspiring feat!  

  Starting out on the arete in the middle of the wall work your way up to the right side of the slab. In the middle of the slab move left on good holds to the small dihedral/arete.  Climb up on big holds until just below the roof and the crux.  Powerful, bouldery moves out the roof lead to the inevitable mantle...  This one is sure no Ice.

KB Cruise is a DL classic for the grade and climbs the right facing dihedral on the right side of the wall. Work up incipient jams which seem to get further apart the higher you climb, then move straight out the roof on jugs! 

Donkey On My Mind is the clean cut overhanging dihedral on the left side of the wall.  It is the best protected .12 in the park, as well as one of the purest crack climbs despite the lack of much jamming. The start takes some effort and leads quickly to the crux which will force you to drop the clutch/crotch.  While cranking the feet up to your ears may be easier for shorter folks, the near everlasting reach above will keep things even.  While this route is a one trick pony, it is also one of the best tricks you will do.

Starting on the far left side, traverse the bottom of the crag through several tough crux sections.  This thing is pumpy and 1 and 1/2 times longer than the routes.  Enjoy amazing features and unbeatable landings.  Beautiful sending, as well as training. It is also harder going right to left.  Once upon a time there was also a low level traverse which was much more difficult.

This is the left most line on the wall and easily distinguished.  Delicate, slopey moves will lead to decent crack.  Good solo.

This is just right of Kingsbury Cruise.  Start up a seam with delicate laybacking heading for the left facing dihedral at the top.  Climb into the upper corner then out the right side of the roof or straight over.

This is a great crag set in the trees with steep overhanging routes. Some routes even stay dry in the rain.  There is also some great bouldering.

Description

Protection

Routes in 2. New Sandstone Area