Fun moves on slab with flake holds. 

  Up to the right side the shallow scoop in the upper half of the face, then roughly straight to the top. 

  Start is tricky if not tall. If having trouble getting through it, worth getting an "aid" boost from your partner to enjoy the moves above. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Sidewinder

Glory Gulch

Cecret Saddle

Big Dipper

Pillar Left

Little Dipper

Pillar Right

Pillar East

So Long

Extrovert

Extrovert Upper

Directly up through the middle of the shallow scoop, without using either of the flakes/cracks on left and right sides of the scoop. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful moves on slab with interesting features. 

  Straight up the dark streak.

Fun moves along vertical cracks. 

  Start up the crack about eight feet right from the left end of the Albion face. Traverse right about six to eight feet across the dark streak (which is the Glory Gulch route) to a higher crack which forms the left edge of a shallow scoop. Up that to the top.

Thoughtful moves up the crack system on the left side of the south face of the pillar, just right of the obvious broken gully (which goes up to the gap between the Baldy sector's main base platform and the Albion base platform). Finish around Left side of top dome, perhaps using a bit of the gully.   . Variation: Finish directly up southwest side of pillar's top dome, with delicate slab moves (5.10b). 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Face climb with some thoughtful moves on interesting slab features. 

  Up the face just to the right of the Extrovert arete.

Fun moves up the arete and sharp left-facing corner on the right (east) side of the vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the Albion sector's main base mid-platform - (the sharp left-facing corner is two or three feet left from the arete).   Finish up onto the Albion sector's main mid-platform with a thoughtful slab sequence. 

Variation (5.11): Just left of the main route, instead climb up the center of the South face, staying right of the crack system for the "Pillar Left" route. The sharp left-facing corner and the crack on its inside may be used, but not the face to the right of the sharp left-facing corner (because that's the main "Pillar Right" route). Pull the roof which is at the top of the sharp left-facing corner (now at last using a handhold on Right side) and step over onto obvious horizontal foothold on Right side at the level of the roof. Finish on the main route. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Scramble up about ten feet to reach the steep face of the East wall. Up the wide crack almost at the left (south) edge of the East wall. At the top of the wide crack make a big step right, then up narrow cracks and flakes to top out on the main mid-platform.   . Variation: From the top of the crack, go directly to the top (without using handholds for the Pillar Right route) - (5.9). 

  Easier version ... (skip the wide crack and big traverse step):    Scramble up higher diagonal rightward below the East face, then take the upper right narrow cracks + flakes to the top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Thoughtful face moves. 

  Start just left of the small tree below the other small tree. Up the face to just left of the upper small tree, then to the top. 

  Last Chance - variation (5.7): The crack directly behind the small tree, up that to just right of the higher small tree. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Variety of moves and rock situations. 

  Start up the center of the gully. About two-thirds of the way up, find a big foothold on right side of center-line, just at the bottom of where the gully get choked with grass + dirt. Step across left, then up the Left wall of gully to the right (east) edge of the main mid-platform of the Baldy sector.   . Variation: Perhaps easier to stay more in the center of the gully - (less interesting). 

  Next step right across the top the gully to the left (southwest) edge of the base platform of the Albion upper slab. Mount a big flake (joining the Extrovert Upper route), then up the arete to the top.   . Variation: (instead of stepping across the gully) From the right end of Baldy mid-platform go up slab directly to the arete - (more aesthetic line, but less fun climbing). 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting moves in the special setting of an arete.   Despite its numerical difficulty rating being lower than other routes nearby, thought is required at several points. 

  First mount big flake on right side of arete, then up on the arete to the top.

Nice spot to do lots of easy interesting 5.2 - 5.7 slab climbing on Top-Rope. Steeper interesting 5.8 below the obvious mid-platform. Two more interesting 5.3-5.4 routes nearby in the Baldy sector. 

  East-facing slab on the upper cliff a ways northeast from Tower Wall, with striking pillar below. Just right (east) of the Baldy sector and just left (southwest) of the Shadow Castle sector. 

  The main base mid-platform is flat, but with a dangerous cliff drop-off around it. So if have any doubts about the carefulness or focus of some participants, good idea to tether them (tree available). 

Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Shadow Castle and Devonshire sectors, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff past above Albion slab, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet back East.   ... or ...   Top anchor could also be reached by going out around way southeast to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking NorthEast along the top of the cliffs, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet east. 

warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Albion