Climb through two stacked caves! Start on the right side of the mouth of the lower cave, clip a bolt and launch towards the looming crux roof. The jams are there, small nut placements are there, the jug is there...find 'em! Pull that puppy and continue up a nice moderate hand crack. Traverse left under the huge ceiling (will that junk go?), use runners to manage rope drag. Turn the corner into the sunlight and jam the steepening hand crack to the chains.

Bloviating Orangutans

Oh Kappitty Kap Kap

Miscreant Mori

Bureautard

Drei Yucka

Luminary Luebben

Crack-a-Toa

Gaseous Fascist

Wormhole

Wack Chont

Porcini

Three star movement with some no-star rock. While I had fun on this, many people will probably be turned off by some hollow holds and an annoying belay stance. Essentially breaks up into thirds: 1 steep and powerful crux through followed by huge holds to a very good rest, 2 thin slab that is maybe the red-point crux, 3 a cruiser glory section to the chains on actual bullet rock.

 The hardest move is attaining and also clipping the third bolt, where a prehanged long draw is nice, so I'd suggest sticking your way up the first time.

Oh, Kappity Kap Kap (OK); more Flag High slang developed by my son and class of 2021. Said in tandem with thumb and fore-finger "OK" gesture which must be placed over the nose, fingers facing down. Particularly useful when being admonished by teachers who believe it is a gang symbol...though you may end up in detention.Shares start with Gaseous Fascist. Clip GF's first bolt, then head left to gain a slab (bolt provided) which leads to a long crack/dihedral system. Jam/stem to the chains.

Many high quality Trad lines up here. Not quite Paradise Forks or the waterfall, but definitely some similarities. Once you dial the approach, you are at the base in 30 minutes. Stem up, finding pro in diagonal pockets, clip 2 bolts and grunt through a short OW. Continue up the dihedral on great pro. Pick your finish for the final 25 feet: 1) Head left on crimps up the beautiful orange wall, clip two bolts and slap for the top (5.11a). Thread rap anchor for lower or rap. A 60 will just make it. 2) Continue up the hand-crack and top out. Build an anchor (OMG! The horror); plenty of boulders/trees to sling. Take up your second and enjoy the view (5.9)! Easiest rap is from the top of Luminary Luebben, on the rim, about 40 feet to the SE.

Work up face and small crack to a triangular shaped roof/pod. Stem and pull through the crux roof and follow tips crack (sharp!) and face holds. Leave the crack at 30 feet from the rim, follow two bolts to the left on the thin orange face. Belay at anchor for Luminary Leubben.

Named for the three (drei) yucca plants that guarded the first roof; I attempted to preserve them but after repeated stabs, I lost my motivation. Corner system just right of stacked caves. Clip a bolt just off the ground, then place good gear under the roof. Most of the routes here are very cerebral, and often, the crux is figuring out the best line; definitely the case here and higher. Head up and left, to gain a burly finger crack on bullet rock with great pro. Traverse out right at second roof; turning the corner is the mental and technical crux. Pass through a few feet of 5.9 jungle and finish at chains.

Sustained varied climbing on superb rock. The tips crack at 3/4 of the way up is gorgeous! Bring your small nut game! My FA partner, excited about the quality of the route, suggested a name change from my previous slightly non-AAC-new-guideline-compliant designation. We began to talk about Ft. Collins, CO, CSU, and Vedauwoo climbing. Craig Luebben attended CSU when I did, and I was fortunate to learn from him during my noob stage. He surely has set many others besides myself, on the path to a lifelong love affair with the mountains. 

This had tan chains at the top so was surely done. Judging by the loose rock and dirt on the route, I'd guess it's been well over 10 years. If anyone has FA info, I will update the description. Too good not to post; starts in a small cave on very featured rock that is much better than it looks. Follow the well protected crack to the chains.

Stem up left of bolt line avoiding some bad rock to the right. Gain a ledge, clip out right on superb orange dacite and get ready for the business. Aim up and right towards a Hueco on the arete using small crimps and techie feet. Work the Hueco to a stance and fire up crux 2 on sharp crimps to the first of the body sized Huecos. As the difficulty kicks back, envision yourself at the beach in Thailand as you work up the huge pockets. Gain the chains and rap the route (120 ft).

Stellar climbing and unique features like many of the new trad routes here. Blast-off from inside the cave and squeeze through the wormhole. Emerge in another galaxy, set course up and left on easy terrain to the exit hand-crack. Chains at top. Lower or bring your partner up; don't be alarmed but they may have aged 25 years as they belayed on the other side of the worm-hole.Note: Belayer may be wise to stand away from just below the 'wormhole' as rock integrity weakens toward the mid section of the route. 

Wack Chont (adj./noun) crazy sh**t: Named after colorful and original vernacular of Flag High 2020 graduates and taught to me by my son. As in, "that was some Wack Chont you pulled".Start on beautiful red dacite to a blunt arete; About 100 ft south of the stacked double caves in the Porcini area. Gain a ledge and pull the first crux on crimps and thin feet. Easier climbing to crux 2. Your choice, left of or directly up the bolt line. Chains at top.

This is the cove-like set of tall walls making up the lowest part of the second tier/upper middle elden walls.Happy to change the name of the area if anyone has info. 

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Protection

Routes in Porcini area