Does anyone know if this route has a name? Because it deserves one.  A ton of variation on good rock: touchy slab climbing with bomber micro nut placements, sinker hand jams, lie-backing and finger locks.

Wasn't expecting a ton from this warm-up when I first hopped on it, but its quality really surprised us. Bring your 70m for this one.

Energizer

Duracell

Power Surge

5 Minutes Alone

Lightning Dream

Proton

Neutron

Amped

High Voltage

Neutron is an excellent right leaning hand crack in a steep corner.  Neutron will probably be the first obvious feature you notice on the approach to High Energy Wall.

The original line shares an anchor with another very classic leaning crack called Proton, which is off to the left.  Ryan Curry and FA-ist Mark Bauer added a direct line and anchors, which does not increase difficulty, and continues straight up from the end of the Neutron corner..

The position of the original anchor will create some heinous rope grinding drag if you were to just lower off of it, so we elected to belay from the cozy ledge up top and rap back to the ground. (You can also set a few directionals and TR Proton if you want from these anchors) Or as Ryan points out in the comments, you can climb to the direct line to anchors instead.

I understand there is also a second pitch from the original (Proton) anchor station, but I don't have any beta on it.

Moves some initial face moves in a left facing corner up to a roof. From here the crack and rock quality improve dramatically. Surmount the roof to the right and a ledge. Climb the subsequent finger crack in a right facing corner to the chains. Very nice.

This route has a lot of variety.  Stemming, jamming, route finding, strategic gear and a committing, bouldery crux make it a memorable pitch.

Originally listed as two pitches, it's easily done as one.

Climb Power Surge (11c), to a belay ledge. From the ledge keep going up the left side of the steep headwall using a finger crack (about V5/6). From a good finger lock and a crimp in a seam place a piece or two then get the left arete when possible. From here do rad compression moves above your gear (maybe another V6 section) to a horizontal break. From the break follow the exposed, off-sized (inch/inch and 1/4) splitter finger crack to the top (about 10+/11-). This is Tahoe’s hardest route on natural gear, with no use of bolts as lead protection.

This steep arete has technical movement. The crux is up high with a devious boulder sequence. Turn the arete after the crux and continue up a delicate, yet easier face.

Tricky first bolt. Stick Clip?

Climb the start of Neutron then step left on a ledge. Climb the hand cracks up and left into the corner. Chimney and jam up to another ledge. Move left into a striking finger crack in a clean, right leaning corner.  Finger lock and stem your way up this enduro corner to a ledge and the anchors. The crux comes right in the middle. Bolted anchors

Thin locks and jams up an overhanging pillar. Hard from the start.

Mentioned as a Dan O project in the old Ron Anderson woodfords guide. Make your way through the sloper horns to gain the crack then face compression/lieback movement through the overhanging section. Try to recover on top of the bulge before continuing up the slightly overhung splitter where more strenuous climbing comes. Shares an anchor with power surge on the ledge below the roof.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in High Energy Wall