Climb the obvious dihedral on the north side of the saddle between the tower and the rim.

To gain the dihedral climb through some steep soft rock. Wide hands lead to some OW and then ledges and chimney scrambling to the summit. Two good bolts with tat are above dihedral.

Fun fact: Matt lead this pitch on the FA in his full fingered belay gloves.

West Dihedral

South Face

This route climbs the south face of sun tower. Its surprisingly good.

P1: Start in a wide slot/off-width and work your way up to a steeper section of worse rock. Move through that and belay in the cave under the roof on wide cams.

P2: Move out the #4s size roof (I aided this) to a lower angle wide crack. Work to the very back of the chimney and tunnel out to the summit.

Rap the opposite side off a good anchor with a single rope.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sun Tower