Easy slab. There are two possible routes on this boulder, one that follows a slight bump up to the right, and one that goes to the left. The one on the left starts with two underclings on two ridges, about arms length apart.

The Birthplace of Fred and George

Highball Slab, aka Webwall

Oval Boulder on East Side, aka the Trashcan

Pinnacle rock, aka The Man

Joe’s Roof Area - Pocket Boulder, aka Slap the Dough

Water crack

Block Boulder - Crack Problem

Blocky/Flakey Highball Boulder

Block Boulder - Right side

East Side Deep Water Boulder 1

Crack Boulder

Devils staircase

Deep Water Solo 4

The Wedge Boulder

West Side Deep Water Boulders

Joe’s Roof Area - lowball Boulder to SE

Sunshine Offwidth

Backside of Joe’s Roof

Pinnacle Face

Deep Water Solo 3

Joe’s Roof Area - Boulder to SW - Right face

Center Boulder

Deep Water Solo 2 - “Is it Deep Enough”

Steep arete - up

Joe’s Roof, aka Josh’s Roof

Bay boulder - aka “Last Rock”

Joe’s Roof Area - Boulder to SW

Highball Slab Boulder - north arete, aka The Prow

Block Boulder - Direct

The Prow - left face

Sunshine Crack

Steep Arete - traverse “Arete Already”

West Side Deep Water - Roof Route - “No Swimming”

One of the most aesthetic problems in MQT. It is slightly less than vert. Start on obvious crimp edge. Move up thin crimps to top. LZ is complex and needs 3-4 pads to make for a good landing zone.

Start low and left utilizing only this boulder. climb up crimps and slopers to top out. 

There are alot of routes on this rock. one up the pinacle two cracks behind the pinacle and two faces

Depending on season, might have water under it. Start on two small holds with a high foot, and make big move to an awesome two finger pocket. Move up and top out.

Sit start at base of crack. Follow crack to top and top out. 

Start on low ledge and work your way up good face holds and sidepulls. Tall and heady but not very difficult. 

Sit start on two pad ledge on left side. Move out to right arete and then up. Top out. 

On the east side, there are several good lines for deep water boulder problems. There are at least 5-6 distinct lines in this area. Depending on how wet hands, shoes, and holds are, most are in the V0-V3 range. 

High ball finger to hands crack. Flakey/Blocky is on the face to the right. 

This is the old rock the climbs are on the 3rd stair from the top and start in horizontal holds

Start in water or off SUP on good edge. Work up the blocky side pull / pinch. Make big move to edge and top out.

Start on head height edge, get a high foot, and make a few easy but fun moves to top.

On the west side of the island, next to an easy access ramp into the lake, there is an aesthetic cliff that is slightly overhanging. Grades are hard when you are wet and holds are wet. Water is deep enough to take a fall (5 feet and deeper). The right line starts with right hand on a good pinch and left hand on a crimp. Move out right to a sidepull and up. The left line starts anywhere on a long crimp rail. Climb up small crimps, or make a big, and very fun, move to the lip. For summer days, lots of variations here. This is near the Pinnacle Boulder.

Short but fun moves. Start low on blocky sidepull feature. Move out to arete and up.

After finishing on the prow ledge, cruise the off width crack to top.

Start on far right side on a crack/edge. Move up arete and top out.

To the left of the Pinnacle Boulder is a clean granite face. There are 2-3 unique lines on the face. On the left, is the hardest line. Start on a good ledge and make big move to jug. Move up and top out from there. In the middle, with a stand start, climb up staying left of flake. Good holds to the top. To the right of the flake is the easiest line. These are approximately V2-, V0, and Veasy.

Start the same as previous problem but exit through crack for easier topout.

SDS with left hand on crimp and right hand on small side pull. Work your way up on crimps and side pulls. Top out and walk down slab.

Start low on left side. Work way up thing crimps and arete to top out of view of Wetmore/Hidden Beach areas. 

Start on dry pedestal to left of face. Traverse traverse right and go straight up. Crux is mantling the top out.

Start same as Steep Arete - Traverse but head slightly to right and up. Top out. 

Local test piece. Stout overhanging granite. Start on obvious crimp. Move out to lip and top out.

This boulder is the first encounted when walking east around the point

SDS with left hand low in side pull and right hand on side pull. Move up crimps and sidepulls to top out.

SDS. Start with right hand low on blocky side pull and left had on small side pull. Move up arete using corner and face holds. Finish at ledge and traverse right to escape.

Start at the obvious jug and climb crimps to the top. This also makes a fun dyno from the start to the lip. 

After gaining the prow ledge, take the crack to the left of the offwidth.

Start on the large ledge that has a decent little incut for the left hand. Follow the edge of the arete to the peak and top out. 

Fun line up a cool overhang feature. This one is borderline deep enough. Shallowest spot is about 40 inches. Need to have good awareness how you fall, or don't fall. 

This island is a local favorite for cliff jumping bouldring and ice climbing.  the rock on the island is suposed to be some of the oldest exposed on earth.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Presque Isle