Shingles Stand Start

Noogie

Wedgie

Ching

Lance's Scary

50 Shades of Spray

Bully Stand

Ciao

Bling

Shingles

Campus Problem

Bully

Space

Start on a good right hand slopey crimp and an excellent left sidepull rail. Move right hand to the good crimp, match, and finish up the long easy slab. (This is essentially the stand-start version of Bully, but worth being in here as a stand alone problem).

Starts RH on the last flat edge of Bully, left hand on the sidepull rail; pull on with left heel and make a big move left then go up and a little left

Starts sitting on a flat hold/crimp a few feet right of the shingles start. Then heads right and over the bulge.

Also known as a variation to Lance's Scary, this is basically Bully without the hard Shingles move. Start as for Shingles Stand on the rail, make the Bully move out left, then finish up Lance's Scary.

Same start as shingles but stay a few feet right of the crux of shingles before reaching the holds of shingles stand.

Shingles is one of the best hard boulder problems in Little Cottonwood Canyon, if not Utah, and is certainly one of the most popular.  Originally graded V10/11, the crux hold has crumbled and gotten bigger.  Today it is considered solid V9 in an area that is notorious for sandbags.  Some people might consider Shingles hard for the grade.

Begin by sitting in the dirt with both hands on edges.  A thin crash pad may prove helpful for the start, as the holds make your body want to grovel down and into the overhang to start climbing.  Make a relatively easy move to grasp the crux left hand hold.  It is a very thin sidepull crimp/pinch with a crucial thumb catch.  This hold is small...but sort of large.  It is deceiving.  Shift the feet, crimp on for all you are worth and deadpoint with the right hand to a railish feature with an edge behind it.  This is a big move, and is very powerful.  From here, you are on good holds, moving into a juggy three finger pocket.  You are into the stand start at V4 or V5.  Set up to make a big move out right to the arete, then another long move to a sloping jug.  A heel hook out right is helpful for some folks.  Gain a flake and pick your way up a tall slab peppered with large holds.  The finish is quite high, though no harder than 5.8.

Congratulations!  You have just become the 1,527th person to send Shingles.

An excellent problem that will gain another star with some traffic. Start on opposing side pulls just above the overhang and make a few hard pulls to a great topout jug. Keep it together for the committing mantle. I felt it was one of the best of the grade in the canyon.

Were you a bully in school?  If so, your physical prowess may help on this demanding bloc.  Bully is the most classic problem of its grade in Little Cottonwood, and one of the best in Utah.  It ranks as one of the most king lines I have ever seen.  Bully has seen to date only three flashes.  First by the Austrian Klem Loskot in the early 2000's.  Ethan Pringle flashed it in April 2007, and the 17 year old Brit Ty Landman flashed it in May 2008.  To my knowledge, Bully has not yet seen a female ascent, though there are certainly women out there who are capable.  This incredibly powerful line will make anyone drool and want to become a stronger boulderer.  Bully is just about every strong Salt Lake City climber's lifetime dream project.

Bully is described as a variation to Shingles, but it is really the main line on the Tiger Stripe boulder.  It links Shingles (V9) into Lance's Scary (V7).

To climb Bully, begin by sit starting on Shingles and do the crux deadpoint.  This is a one move V9 or V10 in its own right.  Take the juggy three finger crimp pocket with the right hand instead of the left hand, which is what you would do to finish Shingles.  Then make an extremely powerful (even more powerful than the crux deadpoint on Shingles) move way left to a sidepull rail which is relatively large and flat.  It will help to have a positive ape index as well as strong shoulder and back muscles for this particular movement.  Though the holds are  big for a 45 degree overhang, the problem is that all of the feet are far apart and/or face the wrong way.  Fight to keep your feet on, or re-establish them on the wall.  Drop the right knee low, and snag a rounded slopey crimp with the right hand.  This marks the start of the problem Lance's Scary which is a V7 in it's own right.  If you are climbing the above named problem, it starts off of the rock in the landing on the ground.  Pad this rock well, as you will probably fly off and slam into it.  You will want to have this finish dialed.  Bump the left hand up to the highest part of the rail and bust the right hand up to a flat matchable edge which is the redpoint crux.  All of the grips are far apart and the moves are long, though the holds are quite good for a climb of this grade.  Match on the two pad flat edge and pull over the lip to the vertical wall above, then continue up the tall easy slab.

If you can bully Bully, you deserve a pat on the back, and I will buy you a beer.

Classic V0!  A tall face climb with great positive holds and easy mantel.  The landing is flat but small so a spotter is recommended.

Description

Protection

Routes in Tiger Stripe Boulder