Another bolted route on the upper S-Curves.  It starts easy and finishes hard.  The final roof is all there and once you figure it out won't give you trouble in the future.  Kind of a squeeze.

Teaming Metropolis

Beware of Dog

High Dive

Devious Dogs

Skyscraper

Geronimo

Bite the Wall

Get a Life

Little Feat

Megalopolis

Clean Underwear

Give the Dog a Bone

Urban Sprawl

Glenlivet

Get a Grip

Gravy Train

This route is pretty pumpy throughout.  First clip isn't easy, third is even harder.  The book shows the crux at the third bolt.  This was definitely hard, but not the crux.  Getting above the fourth bolt seemed a lot harder, as you were dealing with slopers and thin crimps to pull the lip.

A slightly height dependent climb with a powerful start, this dyno-rific route will get you high on rock!

Finesse your way up and right towards the first bolt following a crack in the wall with hidden jugs. Make the clip and get set up using the most comfortable stance. Blast the next BIG move aiming for the lip of the overhang, find the sweet spot and clip the second bolt. Mantle the bulge and finish on surprisingly technical terrain passing another roof and two more bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Fierce and Fun!

This line is actually a lot more fun than it looks and not nearly as contrived as it may appear. This is the roof above geronimo on the far east end of the upper s-turns area. From the anchors atop geronimo one will see the obvious line of bolts that diaganol climbers left up and over the roof. Steep but juggy climbing prevails with a fun leftward traverse clipping three bolts. The crux is between the last and second to last bolt at the uppermost lip of the roof and is stout. From below, the holds around the lip look much better than they actually are.

This is the furthest left bolted line on Upper S-Curve, left of

Little Feat

.  The Ruckmans' guide dings the route as "[p]retty contrived" and gives it no stars, but it beats the gym IMO and the climbing is, well, at least momentarily entertaining -- just keep your expectations in check.  Begin in a nice shady spot between two juniper trees, climb an easy slab, then follow the line of five bolts diagonalling right out the overhang above.   The climbing stays to the right of the bolts, except for the last one, which seemed to me to be the crux.

A long route up the middle part of The Upper S Curve Wall.  Just right of the obvious dihedral.  1st bolt is an awkward clip.  Big exposure and some small roofs, along with slick slabs make for the best route on the upper wall.  At the 6th bolt angle right.  If you angle left, there will be a 5.10 move.

This is the furthest east climb on the upper wall.  Steep and juggy, but not a hard climb.  There is a climb above it (5.11b).

Climb an easy corner and around the right side of a pinon pine to the bottom of the steep face.  The first bolt is about 30 feet off the deck.  Cruise past the first three bolts with a few mantles and good footwork, clip the fourth bolt and chalk up for the slopers.  Pulls on slopers get you to the lip, stand up and pull over the lip (not as easy as it sounds).  There is another sizeable gap between the fourth and firth bolts, but the climbing is easy.  Climb up a corner under the roof and traverse left to the sixth bolt.  Undercling with your fingertips, get your feet up to a lieback stance and throw over the roof into a fingerlock before you fall, then reach for the jug  under the final roof.  You can clip the anchors from this stance.  I suppose you could pull the last roof for an airy finish, but I was super pumped already.    The rock quality is great, though a little dirty in places.  Bite the Wall felt harder than Black Monday (not as steep, but a lot more technical).

Great rock awaits those who climb Little Feat.  Ample protection opportunities make this a good option for a first gear lead.  Start in a low-angled corner system with some horizontal fractures.  Move into some lower-angled terrain and follow protection opportunities to reach the top of the cliff.  The crux is route finding.  My wife liked this climb a lot.

On the east end of The Upper Wall are many bolted lines.  This is the 2nd from the east.  It starts atop a small pedestal.  It then climbs juggy roofs to the anchors.

A delicate and technical little number,

Give the Dog a Bone

will make you scratch your head.

An easy start gains a small bulge, its here where the route starts to take a turn for the worse. Gradually increasing in difficulty, the line quickly puts you in a pickle. Awkward moves to poor holds define the crux. Don't give up working your way to the roof, mantle and cruise the smooth terrain to the finish.

Very steep and juggy, with two roofs to pull at the top.  On lead, failing to clip the bolts atop the roofs could prang you into the jagged rocks below.  The route actually moves left of the final roof, then right to the anchors.  This route shares anchors with Clean Underwear (5.9) immediately to its east.  So you could lead Clean Underwear first if you'd prefer to toprope, but be advised:  the toprope will tend to yank you right, off route.

On the slabby face 25 or so feet left of

Skyscraper

is a line of 8 bolts with (fading) painted hangers.  The first 5 are widely spaced, but there is good protection to be had in incipient cracks and horizontals.  The crux section is short and well protected, around the 4th bolt if I remember right.  The route veers close to

Skyscraper

mid-way, but it's a good line -- about as good as they get on the Upper S Curve.  NB- Date of FA from Calderone's 2017 BCC guide, which rates this as 5.9+.

An exciting roof pull provides a fine crux for a great moderate route.  Plenty of protection opportunities and consistent climbing for the grade.  Good rock with just a little looseness in spots.  My wife loved this route!  Start in the wide crack that meanders to the ridge's arete.  Climb the ridge to a roof and then climb around to the right or left side of the summit block.  Set up a gear belay on the west side of the summit block and walk off to the west when finished.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in S-Curve - Upper Wall