Sit start at two undercling/sidepulls and climb the black streak past a left hand crimp, finishing with a lunge to the lip. The easiest variation uses the arete for the right hand. Make it harder by eliminating the arete, or even harder by crossing right hand to the crimp and pulling through. The boulder at right is off.

Commando

Equalizer

The Hole

Block Roof

Highball Face, Right Side

Double Dip Right

Thin

bing bong

Block Arete

Community Service

Fin Arete

Layback Flake

Slab Problems

Willful Unconsciousness

Double Dip Left

Flake

Highball Face, Left Side

Centerpiece

The Eagle?

Super Sloper or Left Face

Rambo

The Prow

Spanish Butcher

Sit up Stand up

Texas Teabag

Arête Problem

The Mattson Problem

My favorite problem at Buffalo Park, packing lots of great movement into the cleanest section of the cliffband. Squeeze into the notch and head out the short roof to the big horizontal shelf. Follow the finger crack above to a highish topout. Toula called this 5.10+.

This mini-overhang has a few variations and is a good stop on any BP circuit. The standard begins at a sit start with a left undercling and right hand on the arete. Gain the lip by whatever means necessary (crimp, big toss, etc) and fumble over the top. Stand start at the lip and finish the topout for a bear-huggin, heelhookin good time at around V2. Or, sit start the overhang without the right arete for a silly, thoroughly contrived challenge.

A few feet right of Flake on a subtle arete. Start on sidepulls/crimps, and work up to a deep pocket. Top out on good holds  

  One of the easier and safer problems I've done here.

Easily one of the best problems at Buffalo Park with unique tube pockets. Start down below the roof on two awesome sidepull tubes. Work up and out the roof to two more awesome sidepull tubes. Move up to a small hold with the left, bring the feet up over the little roof and punch it to the high slightly sloping jug at the top.

 The landing is separated by a large boulder that is relatively flat on top. Pads and spotters certainly help.

One of two great semi-highballs on a tall face. Climb the blocky lower section to the break. Stretch right to a thin edge, then to better holds. Slightly harder than the left side.

This problem is one burly little mother. Jump, or otherwise get yourself to a large jug 8 feet off the ground and campus some slopers until you can get your feet up, then crank through more slopers and edges to top out. Side walls are off once your hands are on the start hold.

On the far righthand end of the wall is a slabbier line of, you guessed it, thin holds. Good techy climbing to add to your circuit.

Short problem with the crux being the sit start. After the first move, pull yourself over the lip on easier holds.

Start on good holds and grab a jug beneath the roof, then head over the nose toward a small incut. After the incut, jugs abound, but the topout is blessed with a miserable rocky landing.

Start with two big undercling holes under the small roof and power up the overhanging face. The wall to the left is off.

For the grade, a classic and beautiful piece of stone.  Sit start on left arete to the top of the fin.  Variations abound.

Climb the obvious layback flake. Try thrutching up the offwidth behind it if you're feeling masochistic.

In the vicinity of the Double Dip/Mattson Problem (the super-steep cave boulder) are some cool slab variations in the V0-V2 range, with lots of incut edges and many eliminates possible. One of the best variations starts sitting at the left end of the left slab on two edges and traverses right past a big sloping shelf. The taller slab to the right of the cave is excellent as well.

A fine little power problem tucked away in a cave behind Double Dip. Start bunched up on the block feature and pull hard through steep crimps to a small left hand jug. Top out on better holds. All side boulders are off.

Double Dip Left is a seldom tried problem which starts at the Double Dip hold, and then breaks left past a small crimp and a finger bucket.

Great face climbing. Start on the big flake and follow poor holds to a decent break and simple topout. The layback rail out left is off. There are plenty of variations possible, including a dyno from the flake directly to the break.

One of two great semi-highballs on a tall face. Climb the blocky lower section to the break, then tackle the upper wall on small pockets.

Same start as Double Dip, on the small arete.  Up to the good finger lock.  High Feet, small hold high on the face, foot out on the jug of DD, match hands and wobble up to good hold with some grass growing out of it.  Whew exciting.  Scope out the Eagle pict. on top of the boulder.

Starts just left of C/P on obvious high chalked slopers and super high feet on the right.  Big awkward throw to jug, campus to break, mantle to high crimp, don't blow it, top out!  See pics.

A short problem featuring a few geometric pinches. You can start low with a campus move, or grab the two higher pinches and make a tough move up left to a hold....then the top. Starting low may bump up the grade.

Start on flat edges directly on the arete, or at poor sidepulls very low, and climb past a small left hand edge to the break. Continue on more easily. Hard not to dab on the oak, but otherwise great fun.

Sharp gastons and sharp crimps, start off good chalked right with poor feet to sharp left gaston, finicky footwork, decent right gaston, good rt foot, hurty left gaston, balance and crank up to sharp rt crimp, more balance long crank up to sharp left crimp or lip, top it out

A Buffalo Park anomaly this no hands problem has only seen ascents by a handful of folks, start on your back on a crash pad with your feet on the start holds, yup laying down, acrobat yourself to standing and tic tac those feet through some terrible edges til you top out.  Any body part above the knee touches the stone and you're a cheater.  Really as odd as this sounds its a super fun problem.  Really hard to accurately grade this, as far as I'm concerned it doesn't really need one

Two underhand crimps and solid feet to right slap on arete, right foot on nice ledge around arete and left foot up to little toe stand. Throw for nice pocket with your right, left up to a sloper, match, work left and top out. Watch out for the cactus in your face, the 'Ol Texas Teabag!

One of the last problems on the far right side, the Arete Problem delivers some good off balance moves and cool holds.

The lone hard problem at Buffalo Park climbs beautifully and is marred only by the cramped position and poor landing. Begin from a sit with a left hand slot and a pinch or sloping shelf for the right. Some very difficult moves out the steep belly gain the starting jug of Double Dip Right. Finish with that problem.

Large city park popular among hikers, mountain bikers, trail runners, kite flyers, etc. Although the bouldering is off the beaten track for non-climbers, lots of Flag locals come here just to get out of the house. Climbers are highly visible. Be cool. 

  It looks like a big rubble/talus field down there but it's better than it looks. Some airy problems, some silly lowballs, some cracks, some rads, some nice moderates. Landings vary- a pad would be prudent. Rock is coarse basalt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Buffalo Park