This looks like a nice climb, but it runs out on rotting knobs which offer the only tie off for a very long distance off the deck. Up an left on knobs until the arete is gained, then up a face and seam. Eventually real pro can be placed, but not until you have absolutely trusted that the knobs will not break off...

Notable Knobular

Solo Crack

Just Scraping By

False Verde

Gerbil Launcher

At the start, work up and left onto a sloped ledge underneath a steep left facing corner.

Second pitch ascends this corner to a flake at  its top, then work around the flake into another corner to the top. Steep laybacking and then a wild undercling. The rock under the flake is wet in the winter/spring making it all the more interesting.

An obvious short splitter thin hand crack seen on the walk off from any of the climbs on Cascade Falls, Right.

This wild route climbs finger to hand size cracks in a cool chimney system. Be prepared for an obscure route, esp. dirty cracks. Climb the cracks, stemming when you need to, until a gigantic flake comes over them and turns the system into a chimney. Stem off of it while you work your way to the top. After the flake ends, you have a few more feet of blocky cracks to go.

This route is too long to be toproped with a single line, but can be double-rope toproped.

First I paid attention and interest to this route looking at  book 10d ow list, than I checked what "Gerbil launcher" mean in urban dictionary

urbandictionary.com/define.…

And than I came to try this route.

The route shape  well coincide with the name. ( I need to submit the photo) It start with boldery moves between 2 big holds which can be seen as entrance into and than 10 feet of "tube" which is about 15 degree overhanging ow changing size from 4 to 7 inches and than  20 feet of flared/chimney.

Off -width short section is very hard for the grade. One section is completely shut me down where crack quickly transitioned from 5 inches(hang/fist stack) to 7 inches ( no stack). I pulled there on chock-stones inside ow and some face holds which felt like cheating.  I suspect that those chock-stones are not natural and some one placed them to ease up the route.

When you done with chimney go 10 feet up and right on face holds to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cascade Falls - Right