What a classic line!

Approach Sports Challenge Rock on the southeast side and scamble down into the shaded "slot" on that side. Near the left end of the east face, and just left of an large pine tree, you'll see a prominent curving crack that starts about 20 feet off the ground and arcs upward to the top of the rock. A few scoops and seams lead up though steep terrain to this crack.

Boulder up scoops and seams up and left through a slight overhang, placing a few good nuts along the way. These will be #4-#8 BD Stoppers or eq size (if memory serves me); small TCU's may also work. The crux is body english and slopers. Reach a great jam some 25' up and start placing cams. The crack starts as a left-leaning feature, but arcs its way through the rock, eventually becoming a right-leaner. This great climb offers good face climbing as well as good jamming, from thin-hands to fists.

Tape up and enjoy a classic!

Clean and Jerk

Championship Wrestling

Disco Decoy

Cool But Not Too Concerned

Blue Jean Crack

The Lobster

Hang and Swing

Cool but Concerned

Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver)

The left most crack with a flared bulge to start.  Short, but well worth doing if in the vicinity.

This striking climb is easily identified as the wide crack which splits the formation into two distinct (upper and lower) halves. It starts as a hand crack but quickly widens to give good wide crack practice...do it 3 or 4 times in a row after leading to simulate longer Valley routes...The rock is quite good and although short the climb is memorable.

This face route climbs just a few feet left of Clean and Jerk.

Climb over a bulge, with a reach to a double set of diagonaly trending horizontals.   Exit this feature to join Clean and Jerk near the top.

The Lobster climbs the thin crack system between Leave it to Beaver and Clean and Jerk. Climb Leave it to Beaver up to the ledge, place a small cam (yellow Alien) in a pocket and traverse left to the start of The Lobster crack. The crux involves thin smearing that's protected by a hard to place micro nut. If the nut rips you'll take a large fall on a bomber medium sized nut lower down. The upper half of the climb is easy and well protected. You probably wouldn't deck on this climb with a good belay but it's still exciting none the less.

This challenging crack line moves up to and past the right side of a small overlap. The crux comes moving through the overlap on a shouldery move left to a good jam. Rock quality is good, pro is good, the climbing is fun and while not of the caliber of the best lines on Sports Challenge, it's definitely worth your time. A good one to do while waiting for Clean and Jerk.

Just to the right of Championship Wrestling (the obvious offwidth crack that splits the wall into two) lies this high-quality face route.

Climb thin technical face along a thin crack/seam that jogs right near the top. Excellent rock and tenuous climbing mark this route that will make you work for your ascent. Climbing it is one matter, but hanging on long enough to protect it is another! Don't be misled by the rating as it is equal in difficulty to sport climbs much harder.

Excellent route that deserves more attention and yet another fine climb on a magnificent rock. Three, maybe three and a half stars out of five.

This climb is the centerpiece of Sports Challenge Rock and is located two climbs to the right of

Clean and Jerk

just right of a large pine tree.

Boulder up a short face to a sloping ledge and from there make a series of technical, strenuous moves up an overhanging wall past a flake to a horizontal. From there the climb continues up steep rock past more horizontals to the top.

Usually (and easily) top-roped this climb is a great climb to pump out on, as it is a far cry from the usual slab paddling found in the Park. This climb makes a great lead/workout climb for those so inclined. A great climb on a great wall, the only thing it lacks is distance from the crowds.

* Some good footage of John Bachar soloing the route back in the 1980's -

youtube.com/watch?v=03udLvt…

Description

Protection

Routes in Sports Challenge Rock - East Face