This is the straight-in hand crack to chimney on the West Face of the Second Fin of Red Rocks Park.  It is not visible from the loop trial of Red Rocks, a nice feature of the route.

While it has undoubtedly been climbed before, there is no documented ascent, no fixed gear, and no evidence of prior ascents.

JAKS gets excellent winter sun angle in the afternoon and has the feel of a desert spire with Boulder as its backdrop.

JAKS Crack

Black Line Highball

Getcher' Feet Up Direct

North fin arete

Getcher' Feet Up

NE Fin  2

Of a Feather

Honey Pie

SW fin 3 arete

Right Side Ramp

Lemons and Lime

Underthang

Honey Brittle

This route utilizes a few key pebbles and pockets to ascend the vertical, sandstone fin. The pebbles seem secure; the pockets are not. Climb at your own risk: everything in this area will disintegrate with usage and time.

Start high on two crimps and make big moves to sharp pockets and a jug. Veer right and then left to the top out. Just follow the black streak, and don't fall!

Start scrunched on right-facing sidepulls with pretty insecure foot holds, and reach left to a big bulge. Getting on and up the bulge is the crux. Then, climb straight up using the crimpy "

Getcher' Feet Up

" finish.

The crux would be the SDS if you were to choose to do so.  Ascend the ~80 degree angle on solid pebbles and sandy, deteriorating cracks. Perhaps a safer yet harder problem could be found using only the pebbles....

Start on some right-facing sidepulls just to the right of the tree at head height. Get to the big diagonal rail on the right, either cut your feet or heel hook the rail, and traverse it. Above the right side of the rail, use some hidden crimps or the big, vertical rail to stand up better. 2 small crimps and a layback move can get you up. Then look around for some jugs that top you out.

Just to the right of the tree, climb a few good slots into nice pockets and an obvious, dark brown, hole-in-the-wall jug about 10 feet up. Trend right slightly for the upper section, which seems more friable, be careful. You can also start about 7 feet to the right on the V3, and traverse into this problem.

This problem ascends the right (south) side of first honey colored boulder along this wall.

Start low and right, then grab the huge hueco. Follow up the brim, stay on the face, and finish on top.

Downclimb on the northside.

If you know the history, feel free to chime in and I can update.

This is simple arete climbing with perfect-sized, albeit sandy, cracks.  The landing is terrible and gear placement is highly suspect....

Start up the pretty cream and grey colored ramp, the crack helps a bit too. At the top of the ramp, get the jug to the right, step up into a stem, and traverse right and up to finish on more decent jugs. Be careful with the suspect rock.

If you're dying for a gnarly squeeze on some rough sandstone, this is your crack! One etched tally on the first chockstone is all the evidence of an ascent from who knows how long ago.

P1 (not that it requires a rope): this starts relatively tame (16") with surprisingly solid holds, but then as the first chockstone is neared, it shrinks down to 8".  If it weren't for the chossy sandstone as it widens near the top chockstones, this route would receive another star, but as such, the jamming felt a little insecure up there.

P2: this is mostly 3rd class scrambling with one easy 5th move up another small crack that takes you to the top.

This was a really cool problem that climbs a face right next to a sharp, crumbly crack starting with a double undercling in a alcove before tackling the face. It is quite rough on the hands though.

Start down in the alcove with a double undercling, a good pocket for the left, a blunt edge for the right, and feet on the kickboard. Decide how you'll take on the face with extremely limited foot options. Make it to the nice sharp jug, and then pull on top.

The sketchy downclimb is to the left of the problem, but it may be easier to jump onto your crashpad.

If you know the history, feel free to chime in and I can update.

This problem ascends the left (north) side of first honey colored boulder along this wall.

Start near a tooth looking hold, and follow the crack that's above it. Gain the large heco, and stay on the face. Get another good hold, and you're at the top.

Downclimb on the northside.

If you know the history, feel free to chime in and I can update.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Red Rocks (Boulder)