Exhilarating exposure & position!  Navigate your way up to large roof crack.  Punch in bomber gear (small tcu or ball nut/s).  Layout, jam, then crank past the cruxy lip.  Keep your composure and finish on the bolted headwall (optional piton).

Angle of the Dangle

Tofutti Cutie

The Tumbling

Link Up: Crumbling-to-Humbling

Grace

Mrs. Norris

The Crumbling

Meth Rage

Hellboy

Getting Your Kicks

Step Child

The Humbling

Route 66

Slack Face

Dark Lord

Juggy 5.10 climbing to a big move just out of the corner. Sustained 5.12 moves pulling through triple-tiered roofs on positive edges. Skip the bolt out left after pulling the last roof--creates too much drag (thanks ktaylor). Shares anchor with Grace.

First section consists of sidepulls and positive edges. Some tricky moves under the roof lead to a committing mantle and earns you a no hands rest. Enjoy some easy climbing over a slopey bulge and another rest before the wall kicks back and demands a few more hard moves before the chains.

Climb a juggy overhung start past two bolts to a good rest on a ledge. Find the obvious hand pocket, make the clip then move right up the face to another bolt and into the crux, protected by a final bolt.

A link-up exists for two of the classic routes in Mordor! Start on the boulder problem start of "The Crumbling" and climb through 5 bolts of nice positive holds, take a hard right at the 5th bolt onto the controversial rest hold on the arete. Get a nice shake here then tackle the pumpy finish through the final 3 perma-draws of "The Humbling".

Though this route combines the cruxes of both routes, it is likely still only 11+/12- due to the stellar no hands rest. Still a worthy variation if you have already sent both!

Ascend 15ft of easy terrain to a bolt on the right of an obvious roof. Burl through the roof and pull onto the arete (crux). After another tough move getting onto the face, easier ground follows above. Continue up and right to one last move below the anchor.

Power your way through the roofs on big holds, even bigger moves and great heel-hooks, to a ledge stance just above and left of the first Crumbling anchors. Then power final pumpy moves to the anchor at the top of the wall.

This route is now a fully bolted sport route. Get on it and enjoy!

Hard from the start, this line commonly has a few cheater stones stacked up to allow the shorter folks to reach the starting pinch and sidepull. Getting to the first bolt feels like an easy V4 boulder problem leading to a giant flake-jug. From here it is just a matter of holding it together through the next 7 bolts of fun and straightforward climbing on positive edges and sidepulls. The final bulge offers one more brief challenge before the anchors can be clipped from a great jug. There is a large ledge slightly off route to the right towards the top. If you traverse over and get a full recovery before pulling the final bulge, the route goes at more like 11d from what I've heard. However, the moves are very doable without this rest and make for a full value 12a.

Recently a 40' extension has been added to the arete above the anchors, taking the line to the top, and while no move on the extension is all that hard, fighting the pump can be quite difficult. 95' to the 2nd anchors.

Meth Rage starts on the ground and climbs the corner broken and loose corner up to the the mid Route 66 anchor. The climb then follows an unmistakable large, steep dihedral to the top of the cliff.  The rock on Meth Rage isn't very solid but the position is exhilarating.

Head left at the top of the wall where Step Child veers right. Ascend through a double-layered roof and pull the lip (crux) to easier terrain above.

This route climbs past the bolt near a broken crack and then proceeds to follow a bolt line up and slightly right. There are a few awkward blocks and ledges down low but the climbing becomes more sustained and steep higher up. Towards the top you trend left to a set of anchors. It is possible to traverse right at the top to descend off of the Route 66 anchors (and also setup a top-rope on that route).

Approach flared vertical crack and follow up to roof.  Continue, finding least resistence out right, or, opt for more exciting moves straight through roof.

Fun climbing with giant rest ledges leading into the crux roof section. The crux is defined by poor feet and a biggish move out right to a good edge.

Route 66 starts by reaching above a cave and hoisting yourself up on good holds but not much for feet (5.10). Once over the cave, a short section of easy climbing will take you to a large ledge and an anchor.  Clip the anchor with a runner and continue into the meat of the climb.  Mostly good crimps and edges on a slightly overhanging face will generate a healthy pump if the grade is near your limit.  There is a good rest high up which will allow some recovery.  Get back what you can because there's still some hard climbing left to go and not-so-obvious sequences.  A 60m rope will get you back to the ground with a couple feet to spare.

Power through the crux of Grace and pull into the overhang. Move slightly right to a higher side-pull (good shake) and clip the 3rd bolt on Dark Lord. Power through the roofs and finish at cold shuts.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in {10} Mordor