Begin with low angle crack climbing past a few shrubs to a stem box-like top section with two large hand cracks. Set up a belay on a tree with rap tat and rings.

If You Can’t Live Without Me, Why Aren’t You Dead Yet?

Yegg

Gnashville

Fish Out Of Water

How Can I Miss You If You Won't Go Away?

If You Don't Leave Me, I'll Find Someone Who Will

Hacky Sack

This route ascends a finger- and hand-crack to a roof. Going straight up through the roof keeps the grade at 9 while traversing right at the obvious flake to the next crack is mid-10 (flared jams; small feet; there's a perfect #0.75 Camalot to protect the traverse right).

This is the farthest left crack climb on the Third Band. There is a medium-size tree right next to it. It starts as a finger crack and opens up to a hand crack. The rock at the start is particularly sharp.

A note about the rating: Gillett writes in his guidebook to the canyon "the opening moves are a little harder than 5.9, but it's simple enough to cheat by using a foothold in the cedar [tree]". We didn't use the tree and the proposed rating reflects that. A larger wingspan than mine (6'0") may make it easier than what I proposed.

This climb is a wide variety pack. Start with about 30 feet of #6 Camalot in a corner.  Don't worry, you don't need multiple #6s as there are gear opportunities in a seam out right as well as deeper in the crack. Finish this section, and work up into a tight full body chimney. This section doesn't get much pro but is very secure and goes at 5.7. The exit moves can be protected. Finish on a beautiful, wide hands/#3 Camalot crack to a ledge, and build a belay.

Start below the aid route, climb up to a right-angling hand crack, mantel to a ledge (9), and climb the obvious crack off the ledge (10-) to good hand jams and the top of the Flying Fish Buttress. Build an anchor to the right, and rap off bolts at the top of aid line.

This is on the Top 40 Wall. To the right of If You Won't Leave Me ..., you'll find two cracks. This is the right of the two. Climb a flaring cracking reminiscent of Lumpy to a ledge. Jog right a bit and climb the obvious finger crack to a flake.

An interesting variation is to climb the hand- and fist-crack to the right of the finger crack on the upper portion of the route (bumps the grade up to 8+ or so; big fun on this one). Bring an extra #3 Camalot or equivalent for this variation.

This route is on the block called Space Balls. This feature can be seen from the road and in general from most of the approach.

It starts with a slot to a shelf and then goes up a right-facing corner to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Third Band