Tippin the Bottle is located on the North face of Bottleneck Peak. 50' right of Woody's roofs, and 20' left of the Langdon Route. It follows a beautiful crack system straight up for three great pitches with a short, chossy 4th-class scramble to the summit.

Pitch 1: Climb a sandy handcrack aiming for splitter roof. Stem out past the wild thin-hands roof crack and pull into the "Banana Splitter" an arching finger-and-hand crack for 30'. Reach another roof and undercling/layback left, up into a crack system and belay below a weird inverted v-slot. Save a couple hand-size cams for this belay and you'll be happy.175' 5.11-

Pitch 2: The BIZZNESS! climb up through the v-slot, strenuous 5.10, then breathe deep and send the overhanging fingers in the corner above. Pass one great rest, into thin hands and a large belay ledge, with a cave just above. I can't say enough good things about this pitch, simply spectacular!!! 100' 5.11++

Pitch 3: Pull a weird thin move into the cave 10+,and figure out the offwidth/fistcrack roof out of it. Follow this crack with hands to a ledge, and climb a huge thin flake 5.8 towards some horrid loose shit. CAREFULLY stem around the loose blocks (5.9), marginal gear below (save a #3 or #4 Camalot for just below this section) and pull on to a large ledge PHEW! 125' 5.11- (note rap anchors here)

Now leave the rack and scramble gingerly up to the cool summit. There is an interesting summit register up there to check out. The raps are fairly straightforward: three double raps down from the top of pitch 3, toward the west, and down the Langdon route.

A great obscure tower route, well done by Pennings and the late Doug Hall.

Tippin The Bottle

Alaska Gold

Woody's Roofs

Zoomerang

Pitch1:

Start in the right facing corner left of the choss/debris pile and climb to a ledge. A cool tower sits on the ledge to your left. Aid up the crack to an optional belay or continue higher. The crack widens the higher you go. Aid through a roof to the "real" belay. Pitch 1 and 2 are the gems of the route. A2, 150' Pitch 1/2 go mostly clean, if not totally clean.

Pitch 2:

Continue up the crack through a second roof to a boulder curiously wedged in the crack, then continue up the face, climb on to lower-angle terrain. Shuck and jive up a widening crack and belay at a good stance below a wider crack and chimney system. 150'

Pitch 3:

Grovel through the offwidth, chimney through the wide parts. Long runners and big gear are useful on this pitch. No one will judge you if you use a little "french free" on this pitch. 5.10+, 200'

Pitch 4:

Continue up the chimney and sucky off width mank to scrambling above. Watch for loose blocks on the top out. You pay for pitch 1/2 on pitches 3/4. Totally worth it.

Madera, as in Dave Madera, means "wood" in Spanish.

Descent:

Make three airy rappels down the Langdon Route on the Northwest Face

Description

Protection

Routes in Bottleneck Peak