Shafted By A Stoner starts on the right arching crack to the first bolt 20' off the deck.  Continue up past a set of blocks stuck in a chimney and follow the flared crack.  10' bellow the large dihedral cut right on hard face moves past a bolt with a chain extension.  Pull two more bulges up high before gaining the anchor on a steep lip.

Shafted By A Stoner

Cosmic

Face the Damage

The Shaft

Spray Gun

Illuminati

Room To Believe

5 Dollar Shake Direct

Catalyst

Unknown 1

A Stoner Among Us

The Poop Chute

Break the Chains

Powder My Doughnut

The Mayor of Crush Town

This route is a Wiener Lake classic and considered by some to be the best on the wall. Start in an obvious overhung hand crack and jam to burly exit moves. Tape is a good idea as the inside of the crack is covered with toothy nubbins. Jugs and powerful moves will get you to a right facing dihedral and then the first set of chains. The second pitch starts with moderate climbing before moving into a powerful, bouldery crux midway through the pitch. Save some juice for the bulgy moves to the top anchor. Most climbers link both pitches. If doing this a 70m rope is mandatory.

Reachy bouldering out back of cave. It climbs hard bouldery slopers to the chains with Illuminati.

climb up a rampy bulge at the beginning of the climb to suspect looking (and sounding) but bomber holds. climb into the crack that trends right, using hand jams. at the top of the crack gain a quick rest on the bulge and trend left following the bolt line. One should skip a few bolts here to minimize rope drag. After some less quality rock climbing you will come to an anchor. Most choose to clip the anchor and continue the route for full value.  

  The second pitch is excellent, keep shaking out and find all the good rests. Some slabby moves guard the chains. Lower to the ground on a 70m rope.

P1: Start on the first three bolts of Face The Damage. Pull on to a bulge then climb up slab moves. Cut right on a technical, overhanging dihedral and continue out right past two more bulges and a small roof 40' up. Finnish by climbing through a notch to the anchor. 5.12, 12 bolts

 P2: Move left from the anchor into a series of small mini corners and steep juggy climbing. After the buckets sneak your way into a steep right leaning corner and the anchor. 5.12-, 10 bolts

 Both pitches can be easily linked into one with strategic runner placements and a 70m rope. 

Illuminati begins on rounded holds 10' left of the water streak.  Climb slopers to the first bolt twelve feet off the deck then pull hard moves on overhanging rock up and right. Muscle through more slopers and and some off-width moves. Towards the top this climb the angle tapers off to vertical and you will pass a ledge just below the anchor.

This might be the best hard route at Weiner Lake. The crux of this route is towards the end. Most of the good climbing comes after the 5th or 6th bolt. Climb past 5 bolts, then traverse out right and up skipping the 6th bolt wich sometimes has a draw. After the traverse rest on a big jug. Head left and straight up. Most people find that the last draw is hard to clip and choose to skip it. IMO the last bolt is easy to clip (what do I know). If you traverse out right on a ledge right before the last bolt you can stand on a ledge and get a good rest which downs the grade and is known as the Chikaloon escape. For the full experience do not do the Chikaloon escape.   

  There is also the direct variation to this route known as "Shroom to Believe". Instead of traversing right at the 5th bolt keep climbing up and skip the jug rest. You have to be shrooming to believe that the rest is off! Finish by going straight up and not doing the Chikaloon escape. This variation is the definition of contrived but really fun. (13A) FFA Ben Chriswell

The first bolt of 5 Dollar Shake Direct is 8' off the deck.  Pull on sloping holds for a number of hard boulder sequenced up this slightly overhanging face.  On the upper section you will pass a number of bulges to reach an easy finish on good holds.

This short climb is  both technical and powerful. Start on the right sharing a start with Face the damage. Move left onto the face through interesting and mind boggling moves. Climb past several bolts to a hollow sounding crack, good jams lead to the chains. There is a variation of this route called Five Dollar Shake, or Catalyst Direct that goes at 5.13, FA Greg Collins. For this climb see the description for 5 Dollar Shake Direct.

Pitch 1. Begin by standing on a neatly stack pile of rocks to get onto lay back moves and clip the first bolt 9' up the wall.  Continue up and right on fun arete moves keeping just left of the large chain anchor of Lounge Lizard.  Shake out on some small rest ledges before pulling the steep upper section below pitch 1 anchor.   Pitch 2. Start by pulling the lip up and right on overhanging blocks with cracks.  Fight up an arete just beyond the roof to where the route ends with no current anchor.

Make the moves for the first short pitch of Break the Chains. Traverse left from the first set of chains and climb perfectly spaced bolts and burly moves. Another cliff classic!

Some good movement down low, a few hand jams, some generic lay backing. A bit dirty.

P1 "Short Chains": Same start as Room to Believe then moves left along a massive chalky rail after the first bolt. Finish the first short pitch by pulling the big bulge. Avoid the glued on hold for full value. 5 bolts, 5.12

 P2 "Full Chains": From the chains continue straight on close bolts and fun moves with a couple of short, bouldery cruxes. Fun endurance climbing. 10 bolts, 5.12-

 P3 "Break the Quarantine": Move slightly right just before the second anchor and move into the steep headwall. Clear the bulge and continue through pockets and underclings to the top of the formation. An excellent power-endurance pitch. 6 bolts, 5.12

 Linking all three pitches into a single 40m pitch is highly recommended and is a cliff classic. A 70m rope will just lower you back to the ground, knot your ends!

Powder My Doughnut begins by climbing onto a small sloping ledge to access a sloping crack. The first bolt is located 16' off the ground next to a squeeze chimney.  Clip the second bolt that has 6" of fixed chain and continue up this broken crack system.  Pull some bulges and shake out on a number of ledges before reaching another squeeze move below the anchor ledge. 

  Powder My Doughnut Var, 11c.  Start 10' right of Powder My Doughnut in a double dihedral down low.  Pass a nook then move left on face moves at bolt five to tie back in to the original climb.

The top half of this route was bolted by Grant Walker. The crux and below was bolted by Ben Chriswell. Start on Powder My Doughnut climb past 5 bolts, then cut left. Next, climb past 3 bolts in overhanging rock (CRUX). After doing the crux climb past three more bolts to the Powder My Doughnut anchor. Don't let the quality  at the start turn you away from this route. From the start of the crux to the anchor is some really good climbing. I think this route is harder then the one bolt variation on "Room to Believe" AKA Shroom to Believe. In Kelsey Grays 2nd edition guidebook this route is listed as the "Walker Project".

Like the rest of the cliff this cave gets sun till late afternoon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Right Cave