A nice route that climbs through some great quality rock.

Better Late than Never

Good

Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.)

Paradise City

Diabolical

Under Powered

Waiting to Procrastinate

Affirmative Action

Welcome to the Jungle

Evil

Unnamed Crack

Bergers Bakeshop

Chopping Block

Bush in a Blender

Bedeviled

Muscle Crow

Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1)

One of the better 10s on this wall, this route has nice movement. Perfect rests between the crux moves.

This route is Good.  Begin 8 feet right of Evil.  This route is also route #4 in the overview photo. 

  The route climbs on excellent quality rock on large edges that all slope down, making the route feel insecure and pumpy.  If these edges were flat or incut the route would be 5.8.  A few tricky moves over small roofs lead to a somewhat contrived left-wards traverse to the last bolt (which is shared with Evil).  Finish atop the column at a 2-bolt chain anchor. 

  These routes stay shady until ~3pm (DST).

The route is the second one you come to on your left on The East Wall of The Grotto, right around the corner from A Day with Dr. Diablo. This is a very continuous route at this grade and is actually not as bad as originally thought. There is some vertical Diablo type climbing that starts in a dihedral for 3 bolts then continues through four more bolts to a two bolt anchor. The crux is right between the 3rd and 5th bolts on not so positive holds that are similar to the ones found on Good but a lot smaller and worse. I think the route is slightly technical, very continuous, and has an endurance crux. K.S.R. may also be used as an approach(5.8 runout) to The Skyline Arete and "Medusa" on the upper tier of The East Wall of The Grotto.

Nice face climbing with great, positive holds(a rarity at Diablo, and especially in the Grotto) that keeps a nice steady steep pitch on you the whole way.  Good rock, fun movement!  sure to become a very popular route. 

  Its on a north-aspect face that will stay cool longer on hot days.

Work your way right to the arete for just one move and then back on to the thin, crimpy face.

Climb up two bolts, clip the fixed draw high, then power your way through the devious, steep, underclingy crux without great feet-ures.  Choose the right or left variation, neither are easy.

Slightly bouldery at the start, once past the second bolt the climbing becomes easier. Pumpy finish through through the top crimpers to the anchors.

Nice face climbing with good, sustained movement on slightly overhanging rock. Crux is steeper than looks from ground.

This fine route is the fourth bolted route (on the E wall) approached in the Lower Grotto.  The route follows a rounded arete, occasionally veering onto the face to the right. 

  Begin right on the arete, where a few tricky moves get you over the intimidating roof, to a no-hands stance and the 3rd bolt.  From here, it seems most folks veer right onto the face, with small rounded crimps on light-gray stone.  However, its also possible, and perhaps a bit easier, to stay on the arete, using larger, textured sidepulls and edges.  After the 5th bolt you used to head right to the last bolt of Good and a shared anchor, but an independent direct finish was added in summer '07.

Crack to the right of Waiting to Procrastinate, 2 bolt anchor at the top.

A nice arete with sustained moves all the way to the anchors. Climb wanders a bit, going back and fourth between the arete and the anchors.

Rebolted in Summer '06 to eliminate climbing through bad rock at top. Anchors moved lower.  Loose rock cleaned.   

  Also, two bolts added to bottom for a more interesting and fun start.  

note*: this route never saw traffic due to its bad rock character.  There is great climbing on this wall and it was a shame not to be able to access it just because the first ascensionist thought it should go to the top of the pillar.  I hope nobody's feelings were hurt.  

Steep, sustained face climbing through a few cruxes.  Great moves

Bedeviled begins on the arete and eventually moves left to a short crack over a bulge. The belay anchors of the Unnamed Crack are on the ledge above this bulge, but Bedeviled continues up and right without using these anchors. Move over another bulge (technical crux) and cruise to the anchors. 

  The variety of climbing and features (arete, face, traverse, and 2 bulges), makes this route an area classic!  Well in my book:)

Start on Affirmative Action and hang a right at the 6th bolt.  A longer draw here will smooth things out to help you through the powerful cruxes.

This dihedral is mostly 5.7 finger crack with a short well-protected 5.8 crux at the top.  Rated 5.7 during it's re-discovery in the early 90's, the guidebooks have bumped it up to 5.8, and a 5.7 leader won't be happy.  It's seen enough traffic so that it's not all that loose anymore, but it's main value lies in that it lets you get to the good stuff on the Upper Tier. 

  Team KNB (Kisiel, Newell, Beguin) is responsible for the anchor at the top of this pitch.  The name Snazz By Nazz these guys gave to this pitch was unfortunately forgotten (and is one of the cooler route names around).  Thanks Scott for this historical info. 

This area encompasses the entire left wall of the Grotto.  Most of the climbs are typical Diablo climbs similar to Early wall, and Winter wall utilizing sloping crimps on vertical walls.  As you continue up the grotto beginning around Evil Paradise (~100 yards up canyon) the upper tier's less featured tan basalt connects with the canyon floor, resulting in a more technical and varied style of climbing. 

  The rock, while incredibly dense, can be extremely fractured, requiring precautions taken to prevent rock fall.  Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers.  Be especially careful after the winter freeze / thaw cycle. 

  The wall is East Facing so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun.  In the winter it gets more shade and gets more sun in the summer.  In early April the wall stays shaded until ~3:00.  A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)