Edge of a Dream starts on the right side of the Amphitheater.  Begin on any of the horizontal crack systems on the right hand wall.  Work out toward the arete and pull around the corner.  As you pull around the corner take a moment and soak in the view.  Follow the crack to the anchor.

Edge of a Dream

Maiden Voyage

Aqua Velva

Welcome Home

Walk The Plank

Batman

Castaway

Blockade Runner

Lost at Sea

This is an exciting and exposed roof traverse with a fun roof pull on hero holds.  Begin in the V-notch gully or just to the right.  Continue up the arete until you are in a corner capped by a small roof, and under the roof is a thin crack.  You should be above the large roof, but crunched in the corner below the small roof to start the traverse.  Traverse right under the small roof following the major footholds and often hidden hands (crux).  It is easy to get suckered into a bad spot if you aren't following the feet.

Continue traversing and placing small gear until the thin crack turns into a jug hand about 10' above the stance.  To start the roof pull you should be in a ok stance at a small right facing corner/groove.  Plug gear here and fire straight up through the jug hands.  Make a few more moves up horizontals trending right slightly.  Pull over the top and drop into a hole for a gear belay.

The real crux may be route and hold finding.

Fun alternative that looks a bit unlikely at first glance but is actually quite reasonable.

Start on Lost at Sea and at your first opportunity rail out left. Stay in the steeps in the middle of the small face for full effect and pull a series of roofs on mostly good holds with intervening horizontals for gear. Top out on Lost at Sea or Edge of a Dream anchors.

Possible variation out left on easier terrain although I haven't tried this out yet.

Maybe a little soft at the grade - easy to bail out onto Lost at Sea.

Upon entering the upper tier scramble up on to the boulders to your left and eventually to the top of the boulder that creates the "tunnel".  Start in corner to the right of the "Batman" arete.  Climb right onto the face and continue up and right.  After pulling the corner at top of the face climbing gets really dirty.  Lichen covers the rest of the climb.  Continue straight up on horizontals and belay from gear at top.  Decend via Walk the Plank anchors to the left of the belay. Climb seemed weak for grade.

Starts just to the right of Lost at Sea, on the lower side of the arete feature. Move up into a corner, pull up and follow the weakness up until you come to a juggy traverse left toward the anchors of Lost at Sea.

Watch out for loose rock and test holds carefully - the base of the chimney has a large loose block. Be careful esp w/ large parties that often congregate in the area at the base of the upper tier.

With a good directional piece or two up high the whole route can be set as an alternate top-rope by leading Lost at Sea (folks often do the start and merge w/ Lost at Sea w/o directionals)

Start in first left facing overhung corner after coming through "tunnel" to enter the upper tier.  Pull the arete once you reach the small roof (crux) then follow crack to the top. Gear belay at top and decend via Walk the Plank anchors.

Kinda sketchy clipping first bolt. Difficult bouldery original start straight past first bolt is often ignored in favor of more obvious larger holds to the left allowing a traverse-around. Ponder the 10' roof and bear-down. It is no gimme...

Starts between Bat Man (5.8) and Walk the Plank (5.8). Start up corner, dihedral up to rail. Traverse left along rail until you can pull over roof on good holds. Pull over next roof, trend left, then locate anchor just right of walk the plank. Anchor is difficult to locate from the ground, but stand alone anchor exists for this route.

This is the first sharp arete you see when you reach the landing after the short rock tunnel.  The first 30' start out as an arete and then transitions into a corner for the last 25'.  Start on the left side of the arete and move up to the roof.  Step right around the arete and continue up the face until you reach the corner.  Follow the corner to a short face to the bolted anchors.  Use long runners in the first section of the climb to prevent wearing the rope over the arete.  Enjoy the exposure on this one!

Description

Protection

Routes in Upper Tier