Start down low and then work your way up small holds past the

Goat Dyno

to top out.

Island Time

Prow Problem

Purity Control

Black Heart

Cargo Cult

Second Coming (aka Revelation?)

Goat Dyno

Moon Child

Ghost Dance (crimp start)

Cannibal Dance SDS

Friend to Fanboy

Old Bones

Lono

Epiphany

Ghost Dance

Hickey's V7

Start matched on the head-height hueco on the right side of the north face of the boulder. Move up high to some good crimps, and top out.

Sit start with your right hand on a right-facing sidepull, left hand on a flat edge.  Go with your left up to the left to a sloper and and bump a few inches higher to a good slanted edge. Head straight up to a hard to snag jug and an easy topout.

I am sufficiently confused as to the real name of this problem, I am pretty sure it is called Prow Problem, or maybe something else.  Either way it is a pretty fun problem and deserves an entry.

This is the most obvious line on the boulder and probably the best!

Start on two postive pocket and dyno left hand for a pocket. Top out up and left!!!

Per Anonymous Coward: Brian did the FA off the ground starting with his right hand in the pocket and his left hand pushing against the wall. He then reached up left hand to the next pocket, went again to the next left hand pocket, and then jumped to the top. I think he also graded it V8. Eds. This may be Old Bones, V6

.

Start standing on a small rock platform just right of "

Pocket Problem

"  A.K.A. "

Purity Control

."  Gain a (LH) gaston and a very shallow (RH), mono side-pull... past your feet on the wall and make a huge toss to the huge huecos above and slightly to the left.  Very spicy toss off bad holds!!  More fun than it 1st appears.

Look for two big weird pinches.  Somehow pull on with polished feet.  Reach right for a side pull to get you stood up.  If you are tall, you can reach the lip. If you are small, use tiny crimps.

Pulling on feels way harder than V3 to me....

Climb up the pocketed face immediately left of the huge hueco on the Northwest side of the block just left of "

Lono

."  This has thin but solid moves on good stone.  Check it out.

Start on two jugs on the left side of the big hueco. Find some good feet and huck 7 feet to the top.

Start in the same bucket (mail slot) as for "

Old Bones

."  Climb straight up the middle of the North-facing wall on seemingly featureless long technical moves.  Hard, but if you can do it, I think you will find that that the problem is quite good and the holds are all there.  It's a must try.

This is the same problem as

Ghost Dance

, but you start on the two crimps (the crimps you use as a foot for the V6 start). The crux is getting from the small crimps to the V6 start.

Sit start with a right-hand sidepull and your left hand on a flat edge. Move up through a sloper to a small, right hand crimp and a left hand, 2 finger pocket. Toss for the top. Apparently

Hickey's V7

is the stand start variation to this.

This problem starts on a small crimp edge about 10 feet right of

Ghost Dance

, and about 8 feet left of

Moon Child

. Gill-start to a small right hand pocket and proceed up the face. This route is independent from

Ghost Dance

(though you could link if desired). It has an exciting finish. A much harder start could be done by replacing the Gill start with a matched pull-on on the edge. This would add lots of difficulty but no quality.

Old Bones starts in the mail slot, traverses right with some funky foot work. When ready, fire up a long reach left to a slim invisible crimp, get into some good pockets, and cruise up the face on good crimps (with another long reach). A small boulder is embedded in the landing below this, so be wary with your pad/spotter placement.

Start matched on the sloper at about shoulder height. Make a couple of hard moves up to the pockets a few feet above, and you're done.

This is the route on the left side of the north face.  From a good crimp, make a big move to a money pocket, and then another big move to the upper holds.  It is a little sketchy up high but just enough to make it even cooler.  One of the best looking and best climbing problems in the Front Range.

Start on the prow to the left of "

Purity Control

". Sitdown (stand?) start, lefthand on an edge and righthand on a sidepull. Do the first move of the prow problem then traverse right along the seam. Grab a bad pocket with your lefthand and dyno for the lip. This is not the full beta.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Millenium Boulder