Large dihedral on the left side of the main wall.  Crux is pulling off the first small ramp.  This route is PG13 if you place your first few pieces well, and very R if you don't.  At least one person has decked off the low crux.  After the crux, climb past 1 bolt on a slab, and pull up into the right-trending dihedral.  The route gets pretty wide in sections, but doesn't climb wide.  Another excellent trad route, a rarity for the region.

All Marked Up

Leper Messiah

Friskie Buffet

Disaster Master

Melange

Gnar-Gnar

Half-Leper

This is a phenomenal 13a, absolutely classic. Begin with the Half Leper (5.11b/c), shake out on the ledge, then bust into an overhanging crimpfest with some really stellar sequences.

Make sure to use slings strategically on the Half Leper to keep the rope drag down. 80m rope is great. Otherwise you can re-thread a 70 through the midway anchor.

Route on the far right side of the main wall.  Face/arete climbing with nice edges.  Somewhat short, but a good warm-up for the area.

Vertical to overhanging to slighty slabby, and long!  Can cut left about two-thirds of the way up, after the crux bulge, to anchors on a mid-.13 project.  Thuggy and continuous climbing with devious holds through the bulge.

Listed in the Bigfoot Guide as another open project (with a very inappropriate name), I hopped on it hoping to climb and re-name it. Thankfully, Nic got an FA, gave it a new name, and brought some life into this thing! Continue past the anchor for Half-Leeper, cutting right with delicate moves over a ledge. With that much rope out, you've never been so happy to see such closely spaced bolts. The last 40' is consistently very technical on untraveled rock and very very tenuous in for most of the way, with the occasional half rest. The crux comes around 20' from the end. The route has a lot of lichen, and likely hasn't seen more than a few attempts since it was put up. Climb it and clean it up for me, er, I mean for us.

Best trad route in the Humboldt area?  140 feet of goodness...airy, steep, and relentless.  Starts on an obvious flake system in the middle of the wall.  Traverse up and right on the flake for ~40', to the first crux bulge.  Route is mostly hands after this point, with another bulge crux about 2/3 of the way up.  Bring ALOT of long runners.

Climb the first half of Leper Messiah (.13a).  Mid-.10 climbing to a thin, reachy crux just before the anchors.  Route veers pretty far right, best to have someone follow to clean.

Description

Protection

Routes in Main Wall