An all gear line with a couple stopper sections. Easy but unprotected start leads to first crux. Plug many small pieces and fire the short right facing dihedral. Climb a little higher and tackle the flared bulge. Continue up crack to natural belay at summit.

How Much Does a Polar Bear Weigh?

Me So Harney

Lady of the Evening

Long Division

Beautiful, sinuous and steep. Climb slab to reach start of crack and begin pumpy liebacking. Okay rest mid route and a vicious redpoint crux exiting the crack near the top. Be sure to have gear sussed out really well.

Hard mixed line that begins with sporty gear climbing, placements are bomber but spaced, take it when you get it, and ends with a tricky and powerful bolted crux. Merges into the finish of Me So Harney.

This is the nice looking crack just left of the prow.  Climb the short face with a pin to get into the crack, eventually gaining a large ledge, then step left on exposed face holds to a second fixed pin.  Continue upward. 

  The crux of this route is getting into the crack off the ground and clipping the pin.  Last I was there just a few days ago, the pin was looking a little wiggly. 

  There is a secondary crux when attempting to squeeze into the almost offwidth chimney thing near the top of the crack. 

  Some spots have slightly crumbly rock.  May clean up after a few ascents, if it ever gets any action!

Beautiful area in the chessmen.  This area has seen more traffic than some other areas in the Chessmen.  In the immediate area are Mungy Horse, Seahorse, and Long Division and Me So Harney. 

  I believe we were the first to climb this rock last year via Long Division, the route just left of the obvious prow.  If you have climbed this rock in the center of the gully before we did, please let me know the name of it.  It is in Busse and Burr's guide as Me So Harney (same name as the project route on the rock) although our route went in before that, I think.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Icebreaker