This all comes from notes I made almost 30 years ago. Face and dike climbing, don't remember much else but there is gear to be had. 1) Start up face where the wall stops being undercut. Head left up face past 5 bolts and gear to the large scoop left of huge half moon shaped roof. A bolt and high nuts are the anchor. Climb dike above until it ends and your brain tells you to work left, as you continue up look right for another bolt. After that it is straight up blank but easy ground.

Phrenology

Gully of Descent

Free Enterprise

Stickup

Caught in the Act

Young Eagle

Welcome to Big Baldy

Spine Line

Drillathon

Smooth, blank low angle face capped by a short headwall. Follow bolts up and over headwall. Small brass or steel nuts protect moves to first bolt.

Gully crack system with a little of everything.

Climb right crack of two systems. This one almost reaches the ground. Hard moves 12 feet off the ground are the crux but it stays interesting for the next 90 feet. From here on the climbing is fun but a lot easier. Cams to 3 inch and many wired nuts including brass or steel.

There isn't really any aid on the route but I top-rope soloed this climb and pulled on a draw at the crux, so I'll leave it at 5.10+ A0 until I lead it and get a better idea.  Let me know if you know the real name, who did the FA, or if you lead it and get a better idea of the difficulty.  I just felt like adding the furthest left (Spine Line) and furthest right (this one) climbs to start.

This climb has a variety of starts and climbs into a beautiful, clean corner with a finger crack, finishing with an easier corner and some knobs high up.  The first and last pitches are relatively easy, while the second pitch has a difficult bolt protected crux where the corner closes off and turns into a roof.

P1:  This pitch climbs past the small pine tree, up large blocks and to a three bolt anchor at the start of the corner.  Choose any variation, including a traverse in from the east or ascending a number of ways from below.

P2:  Climb the corner to the roof, pulling this roof if the crux and leads to another two bolt anchor.  There's a bolt under it but a larger cam fits above the bolt under the roof.  A clean corner, delicate slab, and a wild move over the left side of the roof makes this pitch an exciting one!

P3:  From the bolts make your way up the left-facing corners and onto to the knobby face beyond.

P3 Variation:  Climb up easy but runout knobs above the belay, slinging them as you go.

Crack to striking left facing corner until level with roof, then traverse left over it and follow crack to ledge with tree. We rapped from the tree.

As the old SEKI guide says, the most attractive natural line on the cliff. That other part, about the lichen, is also accurate. Like a smaller moratorium and would be of equal quality if clean

P1 - 11b - Pull a move to get off the ground and enjoy clean 10a corner climbing up to the first roof. It would be burly enough without all the lichen, but, as it is, expect a full on battle and your belayer to get showered.

Catch a rest and then summon the courage and beta to get around the second roof. Continue up through another crux and then some choss. I belayed on a sloping shelf with an odd bolt at my feet. Crazy pitch.. All the important feet are clean for the time being..

P2 - 10c - Crank off the super clean and sharp locks in the corner and layback out the roof to a thank god foot ledge. Continue up the easier corner, clean and classic, to an ok belay below the small roof of the next pitch

P3 - 10b - Climb the splitter on the left wall and work your way up and over the roof to a stance. A short ways higher we traversed left at a ledge and belayed at a bolted anchor. Continuing straight up did not seem like an option

P4 - runout choss - You can rap from the anchor as there's another one straight down.. not sure if 1 or 2 ropes though. If you want to top out.. we took a line to the left up a vedged v-slot. There are some better looking lines, but it's pretty steep over there.

This enjoyable dike is has been described and being "like climbing the vertebrae of some long-dead animal."  After a short third class scramble to the base of this dike you basically follow it up fun climbing past two bolts until you exit to a crack on the left.  The bolts are pretty far apart but the climbing between them is positive and straightforward.

Climb crack that ascends a buttress and ends on a less steep face of chickenheads. The second pitch is easy but runout.

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Routes in Big Baldy