Long and pumpy with marginal rock in spots.

Start with a fingery boulder problem or a dihehral crack.  Tough sequences between very good rests and ledges to a crux at 3/4 height and more endurance climbing to the chains.

Will get at least another star when it cleans up.  Stays in the shade until late morning.  Top gets wet in heavy rain.

Mooch

Don't Do It

Levi Yoder

Loaded for Bear

Routeburglar

Squirrels Gone Wild

Two Rons Don't Make a Right

Clay City Exit

Cindy Groms

Rules of Engagement

Squatter

Gandee Candy

Ticks and Beer

In Red We Trust

Ursa Minor

Psychopomp

Sam's Boy Toy

Golden Snow Cone

Spicer

C Quest R

Chantal's Starfish

Ursa Major

Barren Gold

Bear Belly

Devil Made Me Do It

Pooh and Piglet Too

Zero Dark Fiddy

Shadow Enhancement

Wild Turkey Crossing

Low Hanging Fruit

Off The Couch

Tar Baby

Rumspringa

72 Hour Energy

Deep in Dis Bear

Pinkalicious

This route starts with some ledges and moves up through excellent climbing with decent rests to a tough anchor clip. This route can serve as a nice warm-up for the harder routes at the Bear's Den or for the Lode.

We back-cleaned the first draw (shared bolt with Mooch) which helped with rope drag; certainly not mandatory though.

Lieback the wide crack up the fat flake trying not to rip the whole thing off, it's just a wee bit hollow...

This route climbs up to a shallow hueco about 2/3 of the way up the route and finishes in dark colored slabby rock with water groves that is often wet from water runoff.

Start with a few slopey holds and climb through left-trending mostly moderate terrain to a rest. Make a few tough moves before taking on the cruxy finish and anchor clip.

Start off a boulder and find a way to establish yourself on the left facing corner.  Moderate climbing leads to a sit down rest and the upper half of the route.  Progressively harder climbing up steepening rock leads to a series of pinches and good edges before a few longer moves to holds below the chains.  Save some energy for the anchor clip.

High quality rock once leaving the initial ledge midway.

Begin near a head height hueco on chossy holds. A number of boulder problems separated by good rests await.

Climb the blunt arête making thoughtful, delicate moves on directional pockets. Rest in a massive hueco about two-thirds of the way up then continue to the top.

A very fun route with a steep start, an easy middle and a crux at the top.

Follow big jugs and cool pinches out a bulge to a no-hands rest about 15 feet up.  A couple of easy moves lead to another no-hands in a concave.  Then punch it through the headwall to a single hard move below the anchors.

This is the best warmup on this side of the Den.

Nondescript climbing on mostly good, but unchalked, holds. A true classic.

A classic route with boulder problems separated by rests.

Good average 5.8 climb.  Sustained, but no defined crux.

Climb the face on mostly good holds with the occasional long pull until you reach the break in the wall. Make a couple tough moves to gain an edge where you can eye the upcoming crux which involves a small right hand pocket. Climb to the top on positive holds and big moves.

You turn the corner at the Den and see a quiet cave. A striking right facing corner in there looks like it holds a zillion knee bars. It does! But they're not useful.

Stick clip one and crawl up on a ledge and grab a great hold. Boulder to the arete and make a bunch of funky moves in the dihedral before a really sick move to clip the chains.

Flow through good jugs at the beginning until the pocket band. Stab through good pockets and keep moving until your feet are above the band, then regroup and continue to the chains.

Start on a lower angle section up to a stance.  Continue up on continuous pumpy climbing with a few small holds, and a few cruxy sections.

Climb thin slab to a ledge. Pull off the ledge on crimps and follow through small pockets up the face until the walls switch to a slightly overhung finish.

Climb the large left leaning right facing flake to perfect pockets on the face above.

Technical, crimpy climbing on a slightly overhanging arete. With the difficult to find rests adding to the pump, this one is a truly tough onsight! If everyone brought a brush, this amazing line would clean up in a handful of ascents.

Low angle route with a crux in the middle.  Scramble up easy rock, pull over a small roof and power through some small pockets and slopers to a nice finish on good edges and pockets. This route tends to dry quickly because it doesn't get much runoff. It gets morning sun.

Work you way up onto a ledge and then climb up crimps to the top.

Similar to its counterpart, climb a friendlier start to a punchy band of pockets. Dirtier the higher you get and a moss-covered flake to clip chains. The lesser of the twin lines, also felt similar in difficulty.

One of the best at the wall. Interesting moves the whole way, tough holds at the top.

Start on the left-facing flake / ramp feature and climb moderate terrain to the bolt before the break in the wall. Do some aggressive standing to gain the jugs at the break and take on the tough pockets above to get to the chains.

Continue onto the face above the wide flake. Long moves on thin holds above the roof bring you to the chains.

Starts behind a tree and wanders up pocket moves over a low roof to a tricky finger crack.

Tech up the vertical face to a great stance before the overhang. Charge up the 5.12- steep face on pumping edges to a heartbreaker crux before the last bolt. Embrace the heinous for a move or two then recollect yourself on some iron jugs before navigating to the anchor.

Slightly overhanging route with two distinct cruxes.

A few technical moves on a slab gains a ledge below the steeper wall above.  A quick thin move off the ledge leads to deep pockets at the third bolt and the first crux- a big move off a shallow two-finger pocket.  Better pockets follow, but tricky reach to a shallow two-finger pocket looms above.  Past this the holds improve dramatically to the chains.

Since it ends below a big roof this routes tends to stay dry in rain.  Gets lots of morning sun.

Start up Golden Snow Cone to reach the large left leaning flake. Follow this large flake up and left with good laybacking and jamming. Try not to piss off climbers on the sport routes intersecting this obvious plumb line. Finish on the anchors of Pinkalicious.

A nice fingery route with lots of crisp, fragile edges.

Easy moves up a slab lead to a layback section below the steeper upper half.  Crimp and wander up the slightly overhanging wall and then cut hard left to avoid the crack and do a few harder moves just below the anchors.

The hardest part of this route is choosing which way to go and finding the best holds.

Climb easily off the ground utilizing a nice left facing flake.  After establishing on the wall a few big pulls between pockets leads to a lower angle face above.  The face has just enough holds to keep it reasonable and not too thin.

Farthest route to the left at the Bears Den. Climb up on to a small ledge below the first bolt then work up the awkward crack and then right on good holds.

Start with a couple of long moves on good holds on orange rock and move up and left into a dihedral.  Continue 5.9 climbing up and left until the midway point where you begin to trend right.  After clipping the last bolt traverse right under and past the chains and pull a harder move to holds from which to clip.

A long and very pumpy route with a vertical start, a steep headwall and a topout crux.

Meander past bright yellow patches of lichen to a no hands rest on a ledge about 25 feet up.  Work up the flake, and cast into a long section of perfect pockets and edges with the occasional shake.  Save some energy for the unique lip encounter at the very top!

To avoid rope drag you may want to down climb from the chains and lower off the last draw.

Gets lots of morning sun.

The overhanging crack system right of the short sport lines. Cool face holds and a few jams lead to a spicy water groove with great rock and just enough pro in horizontals.

This entertaining and atypical red route climbs the beautiful arete on the left side of the Gold Wall.  After Stickclipping the first bolt, make difficult moves to get established on the overhung face.  Pull past several bolts to get established on the slab.  Creep up the enjoyable slab that has just enough holds to keep it fun, to the anchors just above a ledge as the wall turns to an overhang.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Bear's Den