As the name implies good route finding and astute choice of holds avoids choss and enhances route quality and the fun factor. Begin left of the large hueco on stellar holds on the orange patina plates. Clip the 1st bolt and continue up using the plates for hand and foot holds until a mantle leads to a stance atop the patina plates, being careful of the hollow exfoliated gong-like flake above. If you must use the hollow flake to complete the mantle gently pull down and not out. There's not much holding that "flake" in place. Move left onto the face and climb up on good edges and crimps on a broad black pillar to the anchor. Poor route finding or choice of holds could lead to a choss master's paradise.

Choss Avoidance Syndrome

Women with Power Tools

Drillers Moon

Half 'n' Half

The Groove

Shit Faced in Tuskaloosa

Corner Bakery

Better rock than most of the routes on the crag but not really good enough to sink hardware into... unless someone is really bored or has a box of bolts.

Probably in the 1.5 stars range for this crag.  You are here anyway, so you might as well tick it.

Climb the face on positive, but friable flakes and edges to a mantle. Above the mantle continue on small edges and a flaring crack to a large flake/horn and the anchor.

Half 'n' Half is a mixed route that climbs a crack until it pinches down, then moves right to hollow flakes protected by two bolts. If the 5.6 grade is too tame leaving the cams and nuts on the deck and utilizing just two quickdraws and an anchor definitely adds some spice to an ascent.

The Groove climbs the overhung black streaked stem box on the right side of the north face of South Park. Climb the slightly right leaning groove on stellar flakes and edges. Judicious stemming and back stepping lead up the face past a couple of cruxy sequences and the anchors.

Begin climbing at the left margin of the north face and right of the gap between the rocks. Scramble onto a pointed pillar about eight feet above the base. From the top of the pillar climb the face on thin features and friction. Above the third bolt move onto the slopping black ramp on the right and continue on friction and small features to the anchor.

A bouldery start in a flared seam leads to large holds. Continue up the grainy face on friction and rounded edges to a bulging black headwall. Move right and up on features to a good stance and the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Park