This route starts with a fun, well protected crux.  Pull out from under the roof on underclings, jugs, and a bomber handjam.  Unfortunately, the last 30 feet of the route has little to recommend it.  Easy (5.7ish) climbing on sandy, suspect rock with little or no protection, and the possibility of a groundfall from near the top of the cliff.  Climb this one only if you're a completist.  Otherwise, just boulder the start with a pad and a spotter.

Piled High

Upchuck

Noisy Cricket

Reggae's Route

Why Crack

Rob's an A

Tres Amigos

Smegma Deluxe

Not Suitable for Pregnant Women

Inner Sanctum

Phalanx

TR left of Magnum cum Masochist

May Cause Health Problems

Magnum cum Masochist

The Mentmore classic "hard" route. Crux in the upper half of the route, THIN and sequency. Well protected, as is the name of the game for Mentmore routes.

Boulder problem with a dyno followed by easier climbing above.  Furthest right lead route on the Health Wall.

A perfectly good route that can be led on trad, but probably shouldn't be.  Less-than-vertical face climbing on huge incut edges and jugs.  Only lead it if very solid at the grade.  Better suited for top-roping, especially for new climbers and children, as the climbing is straightforward and not reachy at all.

An excellent and enjoyable climb, and also the only climb on the Original side to feature sustained pocket-pulling.  Crank up onto a ledge, then swing through the obvious pockets to some decent crimps (crux).  The crux may be height dependant, being easier for taller people.  The crux is very-well protected, but the easier ground above is quite runout.  It is probably 15 feet from the last bolt to the lip.  The terrain is easy (5.8ish), but any leaders should still be comfortable on long runouts.

A fun, irregular hand-and-fist crack.  Can certainly be climbed totally on the face, but there are some bomber jams waiting in there...  One of the better Mentmore trad lines for a newish leader, since the rock is solid and takes pro well, and there are many solid stances from which to place gear.  The crack jags left at the very top, and the anchors are left of that, so if TRing it's probably best to set a directional near the top.  This was the very first route ever climbed at Mentmore!

The bolted line furthest right on the crag, to the right of Smegma Deluxe. Climb out the overhang, and pull yourself onto the face. If not solid at the grade, you may want to stick the first bolt or put a crash pad underneath you for the first few moves.

One of the better 11s here, this route is fairly sustained, a rarity at Mentmore.  Crank the bouldery start (crux) and mantle onto a large ledge.  There is a bolt on the lip of the ledge, but I would recommend skipping it and clipping the 2nd bolt while standing on the ledge.  Safer and easier.  From the ledge, climb the smooth, slightly overhanging face above you on decent crimpers.  You can stay left, right or center of the boltline: all are roughly equivalent difficulty and quality, and all are pumpy.  I think that the clipping stances are best from the right of the bolts, however.  Watch out near the top: some of the crimps feel pretty delicate.  Finally, remember that using the dihedral at all is OFF ROUTE.  However, if the start is too hard, it's easy to climb up to the ledge using the dihedral, and enjoy the rest of the route from there.

A Mentmore classic, if there are "crowded" routes at Mentmore this is usually one of them. Climb up and through the overhang, and top out for the anchors.

The BEST 5.10a at Mentmore, this route should get climbed far more often than it does.  It follows a shallow, incipient crack system up a shallow scoop in the cliff face, with fun climbing, good rock, and so on.  Go do it!  Clipping the 3rd bolt can feel quite hard, though, so this is not a good choice as a first 5.10 lead.

Possibly the best trad line at Mentmore, Phalanx is the obvious, eye-catching splitter at the far right (east) end of the Health Wall.  While face holds are available, knowing how to finger jam will really help you out on this one.  Be careful though, some of us with mid-sized fingers need to resort to ringlocks...  The crack takes good pro, and the fall is generally clean, so this is a good climb to push your leading grade on.  Also easy to toprope, and excellent for practicing technique.  If only it was longer...

TR left of Magnum cum Masochist. Crux start through the clean rock to easier climbing above.

Follow the finger crack on the left side of the wall. Nice crack, and a great moderate.

One of the most popular routes at Mentmore, but not one of the best, even for the grade.  Climb up the varnished face about 10 feet, then pull onto a large ledge below a prominent spray-painted "peace sign."  There is a bolt at the lip of the ledge, but I would recommend skipping it and just clipping the 2nd from a secure stance  (avoids rope drag).  From the ledge, climb the vertical face above on large incut edges.  The crux is at the 3rd bolt, and can be potentially challenging to some.  The crux can be avoided by staying well right of the 2nd and 3rd bolts.  Climbed this way, the route probably goes at 5.9.   The anchor, while not far from the lip, can be tough to equalize well; bring some extra biners, slings, and ingenuity.

This is the wall that is the furthest east (rightmost) on the crag. A series of great routes exists on this wall beginning with Tres Amigos, which is just left of a prominent dihedral crack (May Cause Health Problems). The wall is separated from Bennie Silva wall by a prominent arete, which has the climb Big Blobs of Love up it. 

  When taking the trail from the parking lot, you will typically end up between this wall and Bennie Silva wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (05) Health Wall