Striking wide corner crack. The width is pretty consistent around 5-6". The crux is shortly before the anchors, when you must wriggle out of the chimney and surmount a roof. Lots of sections of good Leavittation, lots that isn't so straightfoward... wear long pants and probably long sleeves.

I don't know the name or the grade, looking at the guidebook didn't clear it up. Let me know if you have the info.

Unnamed Wide Crack

Dr. Goodhead

Jaws

Jinx

Sundawg

Long 5.10

Octopussy

Make a short burly move onto a big shelf, into the main finger crack. Moderate climbing takes you up some ledges until the steep final push to the anchors, where you may resort to a layback.

Another fun warm-up with short crux sections and plenty of rests.  Start by stemming and jamming up a flake with big hands and hands on the right side.  Continue into a shallow slot with off fingers and pull over a chockstone (crux).  Some more finger and face climbing gets you to the anchor.

Jinx is a classic Moab rim route with lots of finger sizes and nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot.

The first pitch starts up Dr. Goodhead and then traverses right at an obvious horizontal weakness.  Continue up a thin right facing corner with a bolt, that gradually opens up to fingers and then tight hands to a roof.  Stopping at the anchor below the roof keeps the first pitch at 5.11 or avoid the hanging belay and traverse out left fighting around the lip of the roof (crux), then up easier terrain to another bolted anchor. (12-)

Pitch two climbs a steep off-fingers corner on perfect rock to some softer but easier rock and an easy traverse left to the belay.  This anchor is shared with the second pitch of Quantum of Solace. (11-)

Pitch three starts with steep thin hands in a corner to an anchor out left.  Pass the anchor and continue left through some hard underclings to a big move that gets you into a corner with a bolt.  Blindly move out of the corner and around the arête to your left to get to the belay. (11+/12-)

Pitch four ascends a short but thin shallow corner to a ledge and then continues up the easy lower angle corner to the top.  (11, gear anchor)

Descent: Walk climbers right and scramble down the right side of a large square block to find the first anchor.  Rap the route from here with two 70m ropes, or swing right and set up a TR on Octopussy.

This is a fun route and a great warm-up for some of the harder lines.  Start with some moderate face climbing to the left of the crack protected by small gear.  Continue up a slippery left facing corner (crux) with good fingers to a rest ledge.  The final section is fun splitter fingers and off fingers up a wavy wall that provides good feet.

Long #2 crack, definitely need 2 ropes to get down. No one move was that challenging, but just went on and on.

This route is one of the test pieces of the cliff, but be warned, its not your typical desert fare.  Start by working your way into an awkward squeeze with thin gear for pro.  Continue up a short finger crack that eventually pinches shut forcing you into a hard stemming section past the first bolt.  Take a nice long rest before launching up a pumpy flake with flared pods and tricky cam placements.  The last 10' (which I thought was the crux) is protected by two bolts and requires more hard stemming and big reaches.  The routes not over till you clip the anchor!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Buttress Two (Bond Buttress)