Thin and technical is the name of the game on this sweet climb. The crux is protected by two bolts mid way up the climb, but the climbing before and after keeps you engaged.

Spanish Inquisition

Lusty Vicar

Velvet Gloves

Acrobat

Triple Decker

Essence

Climbs way better than it appears from the ground.

Named because of 3 distinct climbing sections not because of "decking" potential.

Blind but solid nut placement above first bolt and crux 11b move. Solid great moves to no hands rest. technical short middle section in corner/arete with 2 bolts to another no hands rest. Short but steep overhanging handcrack to the top and the chain anchor

Lusty Vicar begins just around the corner from the main face of Black Beauty Wall. It starts with an EASY (~5.9) pull over an overhang then ascends a not-steep flared crack.  As you go up, the crack gets thinner and the climbing steeper.

The crack closes up as the wall gets vertical.  There's a small pocket to reach to higher in the seam.  This part is where the rating 'serious' is deserved.

After the pocket, you hit the crux - pulling through the roof via a flared jamcrack.

Velvet gloves is the right-most climb on the main face of Black Beaty Wall.  It is easily identified by the double hand-crack system down low.  The cracks run away from each other as you get higher.  Follow the left crack, through the flared crux.  Afterwards, the crack becomes less consistant with a few wide sections punctuated with more hands.  Keep going 'till you hit the anchors!

one of the absolute best sport routes in Hwy 50 corridor!

Start up 20 feet of decent 11a climbing to a ledge.

The fun starts here. Launch into the action that is sequential, square cut, slightly overhanging powerful climbing. Gain the right facing corner (1 inch piece optional) and move up to the roofs. Climb amazing overhanging jug haul to get established on another no hands rest. climb hard technical arete with spoiler exit move to chains. Like nothing at Wrights lake.

Interestingly, there are 2 glue reinforced holds on this climb.

Rated 12a which seems a wee bit sandbagged but gym climbers would probably romp it. Despite the glue and the rests this is great climb

Super sustained thin crack, with three distinct cruxes. First and hardest a lieback move with poor feet, then a cool and funky mantel, then one more hard straight in move. Solid 10 plus in between. Very fun for how thin it looks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black Beauty Wall