A fantastic and varied line straight up the sweeping central buttress on Hot Tuna Tower. A healthy sandbag at 5.9 by the first ascent party; modern climbers seem to find terrain no easier than 5.10c.

P1) Runout slab up to the big right-leaning corner. It is probably best to stop and belay at the base of the corner. We linked with the corner above for a long 60M pitch, and rope drag sucked. 5.9R

P2) Right leaning corner that varies from tips to hands, belay on a large flake/block above. 5.10c

P3) Up the right-facing corner to a sloping belay ledge. 5.9. There is a mysterious 2 bolt (3/8") anchor 20' up and left on the face from here that could also be used - this is not indicated on the topo.

P4) Up and right on easy runout face and slab to a ledge with broken blocks. 5.4R

P5) Step around the corner and up through a large bush, then straight up cracks. A couple fixed pins near the end of the pitch protect a few thin cruxes. Old 1/4" bolted anchor. 5.10

P6) Thin face off the belay to a crack, then more fixed pins protecting thin cruxy sections. Work up through steep and somewhat runout chickenheads to a belay ledge. 5.10 PG

P7) Steep chickenheads lead to an airy traverse out right onto the edge of the arete, then follow a wide hands crack through a short chimney pod. Belay at a marginal stance inside a crack after you step left. 5.7R

P8) Up and right following cracks to the summit ridge. 5.7. From here, unrope and walk around the summit block. Solo up/down the exposed and unprotected 50' summit block on it's SW side, 5.5.

Violet Green

Chicken of the Sea (aka North Ridge)

Follow the north ridge of Hot Tuna Tower. Much 3rd and 4th class scrambling with short (<50') sections of 5th class. The summit block is likely the crux of this route. Ascend the S/SW side of the summit block on some slab and sweet chickenheads. No anchor on top, downclimb the block to descend. I then followed the ridgeline south over the next sub-summit, and dropped off NW into the gully behind the towers. This is a good option if you are carrying all your gear with you, otherwise descend as per Croft/Lewis - "drop east down the second gully south of the summit, some rappels may be required."

This route is easily reached from the top of Soaring Eagle Tower, and allows for a fun solo linkup of the two towers.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hot Tuna Tower