Start on the arete then head into the left trending crack with a variety of placements. Tricky moves over bulge to a rest on some plates to the left where you contemplate your next moves. Surmount the roof with a few awkward moves into a wide crack (#4 C4 placement) that heads to the right and narrows the higher you go. Higher up the steepness lessens as the crack widens. Use anchors for Stand up comedy or build anchor using gear.

Call Me Ishmael

Stand Up Comedy

The Longest Yard

Silly Millimeter

Grin and Bear It

Sloping Beauty

The Angry Inch

Vertical face with edges gain a shallow left-facing corner which is liebacked to a right-facing flake which gains easier ground. Head slightly left on slab past one more bolt to finish.

Climb the face/arete of the flake past a few bolts to reach a slightly steeper section of face below a slab. Work up the vertical face on underclings and then make the "stand up" move to transition onto the lower-angled, but less-featured slab above. A short bit of slab concludes the pitch and leads to anchors on a sloping ledge.

A fun route in that the lower section of the climb is well-featured and sets you up for the "stand up" move, which will either have you laughing or crying as you ponder the nature of the holds at the crux.

Hand-traverse the juggy rail past three bolts and then gain a stance below the final bolt at an arete. Reachy and somewhat insecure moves past the last bolt will see you through to the anchors - taller climbers will have an easier time with this as the crux is a bit reachy.

Enjoyable movement on this route which unfortunately is not longer.

* Remember, it's all about the last three feet!

The route takes the right-facing corner system which starts slabby and slowly steepens to vertical at the top, where you'll encounter the crux. Gear belay and walk off or rap from any of several anchors - the ones atop

Stand Up Comedy

are probably the easiest to access/use coming from above.

Work up big holds at the start to a high first bolt and then make the crux mantle (5.10) which leads to easier slab climbing past two more bolts. The last bolt protects a short section of vertical face that guards the anchors.

Boulder up a left-slanting rail to a high first bolt and then work up and right on crimpy edges (crux) to snag a jug at the 3rd bolt. From here you have two choices: 1) the original finish - which works up featured rock, clips the last bolt up and left of the arete and then mantles onto the south face where a short bit of face climbing leads to anchors. 2) a newer direct finish - from the third bolt continue straight up, clipping a bolt on the right side of the arete and finish up with the crux of

The Longest Yard

.

A fun, bouldery route which is even better with the newer direct finish, but unfortunately the fun is over all too soon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost Orbit Rock - East Face Left (Angry Inch Wall)