This route starts with left hand on a large pocket on the face and your right hand on a small hold under the roof with your left foot heel hooked to keep you from touching the ground.  The easiest way to get out of the start position is to follow the large pockets and jugs in the crack that trend off to the right.

 If you are having trouble with the boulder you can start with your hands switched and your right foot heel hooked.  It will drop the difficulty down to V1ish because it lets you skip some of the harder start moves.

The Dangler

Short Changed

Start with left hand on an undercling beneath the overhang and right hand on one of the larger pockets on the face. You will have to get a good right foot heel hook to stay off of the ground.  Move your left hand out to the lip of the face and then slowly bump your hands up with the small holds on the face until you reach the jugs at the top of the face to get to the easy topout.

This is the small boulder in front of and slightly to the left of the waterfall in Fern Buttress (Fresh Squeezed is just to the right of the waterfall). The side of the boulder visible from the path has a 5ish foot overhang and then 5ish feet of climbing on a face with lots of holds. The landing is on a bit of a hill and the walk-off is super simple off the back side.  

 This boulder is still super dirty but will be cleaned soon.

Description

Routes in New York Boulder