An entertaining line up a thin face to a fun (10.c) roof. First bolt is quite high (20'+) but can be clipped by using the easy 5th on the left and/or stick clip. Needs a few ascents to clean it up, as with most routes here. Originally led on gear (bouble rp's, thin rack to 2", slings. 10.c R/X). For those with fat fingers, the roof can be a struggle.

Io's Hidden Pleasure Point

2nd Street Scene

Sure Thing

flash lingo

Scatmando

Great White

MInor Munginella

Yesterday's Man

Bohemian Blvd.

Festivs

Freebie Jeebies

Project

Traitor Horn

Corner Shot

The Black Crack

Code Brown

Eat Crow

The Finger Crack

Black Corner

Lady Fantasy

The Loading Zone

Cafe Society

Blow By

Serenity Now

The Three Idiots Traverse

Blackout

Staggering for Justice

Deviant

Start on "Io's Hidden Pleasure Point", after the fifth bolt head left to the overhanging roof, clip 2 bolts, pull the tough roof/mantle, finish at the chains for "Io's...".

The original meaning of deviant is "turning out of the way". Well protected, can be damp in spring.

Either start on the easy 5th class blocks at the start of corner shot or straight up the crack to the left. Hands to off-fists. Wander through variations tending straight up to the top.

Start in the steep corner to the left of 'The Finger Crack', pull through a fun roof bulge with good hands. Turns into a low angle O.W., which can either be fun and easy or scary and hard.

Climb the first 15' of 'Sure Thing', then look left to find the bolt, just out of reach. Step out onto the face, good hands, crazy feet, clip bolt, move up and search for the well hidden holds. As of April 2016, the bolt, a rusty button spinner, is NOT to be trusted.

Has to be one of the best at the crag. Easier than it looks, maybe. The more you climb the crack (leaving the face holds out) the harder it becomes. Good practice for pulling difficult roofs. Climb up the well protected corner to a fun hand traverse left. Pull onto the ledge...or head straight up the crack.

Layback a wide crack for a few bolts, then finish with a couple of techy face moves to the anchor.

Starts in the same alcove as Cafe Society, breaking up and right. Has cleaned up nicely since the FA.

Shares the start with Loading Zone in a left facing dihedral. Straight up and through a crux bulge mantling onto a platform to the right. Harder than it looks from the ground. It is possible to top rope this from the chains on top of Loading Zone. (Use the directional bolt and some webbing)

A left facing (almost) dihedral/corner. Climb the solid hand crack to the off-fist bulge, the crux. Finding gear is the fun part on this one, and it is not over till you hit the top.

The furthest right line at the crag, a thin corner leads to a bulge 15 off the ground. More difficult than it looks and very fun.

This is a heady lead. Original FA's call it PG13...more R than not. Thin face moves protected by just enough (maybe) gear and 1 older bolt, up and over a small roof bulge 20' off the ground. A fun line to toprope, too.

Start up the thin crack on the face of the 'Loading Zone' Buttress. Pull the bulge, thin face to the finish of Loading Zone. Optional (easier) to break right and finish on 'Blow By'. Difficult to give this a grade, as there are many variations/exits.

Easy hands to a deceptive bulge/roof. Crux is dealing with the flaring fists above! Great fun, protection can be difficult above the bulge.

Right facing broken dihedral. Climb the crack, use the face, many options. Ends up and left. Can be combined w/ 'Io's Hidden Pleasure Points' by traversing right under the roof and exiting up the overhung hand crack (10.c).

Start in the alcove to the left of the big roof (Scatmando) going up the left hand crack straight up. Meets 'Finger Crack' at the false top.

Technical and sustained climbing on a blunted arete.  The crux probably comes pulling past the second bolt, but the route is stacked with 5.11 moves.  Full-on for its relatively short length.

Blowing the second clip could be real bad...clipping off the left-hand undercling/sidepull is recommended.  Or stick clip both 1st and 2nd bolts.

This will be a better climb as it gets climbed and cleaned. A difficult to see left facing corner, mossy, dirty, sometimes bushy. SOunds fun, right?

A thin finger crack starts at the base of the jutting rock and arches up and to the right. Harder for those with large fingers.

Start in the alcove to the left of the big roof (Scatmando) going up the right hand corner crack. Jam and stem up to a roof bulge (crux) which gets a little wide.

A classic roof/bulge crack. Great line to practice on toprope. Crux for most is pulling into the pod at the bulge. It's all about the feet!

The line which is the namesake of the crag. Start up Yesterday's Man, at the obvious crack leading of to the right exit around the bulge (crux for some) and head up through 2 VERY OLD and needing to be replaced bolts. This lead is for solid 11+/12 climbers!

Perhaps the most popular climb at the crag, a great way to get on the rock and shake the cobwebs from your trad rack. Fun.

To the right of The Loading Zone, the corner of the bulge. Start up the hand crack, move left onto the face past 2 older, questionable bolts.

One of the best lines at the crag, 5.9 for those with ample hands width, harder for those with smaller hands. Wide hands, to fat fists, a vertical heaven which ends too soon. Crux is just having the time to get in gear. Really fun.

SO there they were, end of the day, enjoying a beer and/or cider, talking about the things we talk about after some good redpoints, and SOMEONE came up with the idiotic idea of doing a traverse of the whole wall.  And off they went.

The crux is at the very end, passing under "Loading Zone", a no feet thin hand crack.  The whole is quite entertaining, with a lot of thought needed to protect it well while reducing rope drag. Stay high enough to avoid groundfall potential.

P1) 5.8 Go as far as you can until the rope drag keeps you from moving. Lower off.

P2) 5.10- The follower is as exposed as the leader: It's a traverse!

Head up through 3 bolts of 5.10-, staying to the right of the bolts. Cross the bolt line and pull the bulge on a looong deadpoint to a jug. Make a balancy mantel, then finish up the last 2 bolts of "Blow By".

A fun face climb when your crack hands just won't take any more punishment. Climb without using the cracks to either side. May feel thin for the grade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Loading Zone