This route is best started as if starting Trail Magic. Just below the first small overhang on Trail Magic, move right in an improbable move to gain the top of a creaky flake. Step left and climb directly up the face w/ one hard friction move (5.10?) and several nice moves with crimpers to the top.

Trail Magic Face

T.B.D.

Quartz Wall

Arch of Delight (aka The Corner)

Slab to Corner

Around the corner

No Gear

Falling Bodies

Super Slab

Unnamed  1

Crack-and-Up

Slickrock

Athlete's Feat

Trail Magic

Class 4 Scramble

Blisters (aka Waterfall)

UnNamed  2

This route climbs the crack on the left side of the upper cliff. Starts with a finger crack going through an overlap about 20 ft up. This is a  really a good lead and worth doing. A blue tri cam works to protect the flaring pod like section before the thin seam part, which is the crux. You can get a micro wire somewhere in the seam before you totally commit to the thin slab move. The rest of the route is around 5.7. Good gear the whole way. Easy to set up for t.r. off trees.

One of the few lines on the main slab that has reasonably spaced pro.     

  Let me know if you know the route's name and FA. 

  Start in a straight, finger-sized crack that trends up and left for about 10 feet.  After reaching the horizontal crack 20 ft. off the ground, zigzag back and forth to find pro opportunities in cracks and under flakes.  Aim for the left side of a small overlap with a left-facing corner and an 18" diameter oak tree at top.

This climb starts on the far left hand side of the cliff, just to the right of the wide "descent' gully. Make opening moves to gain the vertical quartz wall, continue up this face (gear) and eventually step right and up to a small stance. Climb up and left to the outside corner, using one hand on the outside corner move up and right to a very shallow, 2" flake [no pro here!], continue up this flake(crux)to the top.

Climb the left-facing corner (i.e., the right side of the arch).  Then step right out of the corner, and continue up the face falling a small crack with a few small trees to 10" oak tree. 

  A variation/alternate start to Arch of Delight, commonly referred to as Slab to Corner, starts directly below the left facing corner of Arch of Delight. Climb the slab up and right ~30-40 ft to a point where you are about 5-8 ft above the start of "Corner" and make a tricky move left into Arch of Delight. Finish on that climb. 

This is the alternate start to Arch of Delight. Starting at the far left end of "Super Slab" and directly below the left facing corner of Arch of Delight. Climb the slab directly up ~30-40 ft to a point where you are about 5-8 ft above the start of "Corner" and make a tricky move into the "Corner". Finish on that climb.

follow the face just to the right of the ''arch of delight'' corner, without grabbing the arrete of the left facing corner to the left. continue all the way up to the trees. Thin, sustained slab moves.

Nice toprope route with chopped bolts about 10-20 feet to the climbers left of Trail Magic. Really nice rock definitely worth checking out. No Gear has leadable cracks at the bottom that disappear half way up the cliff. The face above once had bolts which were chopped.  TR setup on trees is standard but if possible please build gear anchor.

This route starts about 30 feet to the right of Arch of Delight. Climb directly up and at about 25-30 ft up, pass over a sharp, knife-like flake and move left. From here continue more or less straight up. The route TBD moves right at the Knife-like flake.  

  Alt. Finish: After making the move left from the flake and up a bit, one can move back to the right (but not as far as T.B.D.), and then finish straight up to the large ledge about 25 ft left of the huge oak tree.

 To Be Deleted... 

  See photo posted to Athlete's Feat    OR the photo with red route-line posted to "T.B.D." In the photo posted to T.B.D. the "Last Climb on the Slab" reaches the small arch at the 90-degree turn to the right [the 'knife-like flake is just above] and then steps LEFT and then climbs up the rock just to the RIGHT of the hanging tope rope.   [Note: The should probably be called "Last Climb 'Completely' on the slab, since the climb "Slab to Corner" actually starts LEFT of this climb.  

  ROUTE, Start about 30 feet right of the left-end of the slab.   Climb directly up; about 25-30 ft up, pass over a sharp, knife-like flake and move left, ["ALT 1"] then more of less directly up [ALT 2] to finish on the large ledge about 25 ft left of the huge oak tree. 

  ALT 1- "ALT 1" is the route shown as T.B.D. with the route (red line) climbing well to the right.   ALT 2 - After making the move left and up a bit, an ALTERNATE move back to the right (but not as far as the red line in T.B.D.) can be made, and then straight up.  EXPLORE !!!

The Super Slab is more of an area than a route.  It is the large, smooth slab that you first encounter when hiking up the A.T.  The Slab is about 80 feet wide and contains many toproping opportunities and a couple of leadable routes.  It runs from Class 4 Scramble on the right to Slab to Corner on the left. 

  Popular toproping lines (not listed as separate routes): 

 On the far right side of the slab.  Start to the right of two medium-sized trees growing on a small ledge about 20 feet up.  A horizontal crack runs about 15 feet off the deck. (5.5)  About 20 ft. right of T.B.D.  See this pic for the start. (5.7)

  The Fasulo book grades the Super Slab as 5.5-5.10.  Choose the line that appeals to you. You can make it as hard or easy as you like.

Start about 25 ft from the far left end of the Upper Ledge. Climb directly up, passing 2 small overhangs to the thin upper wall (crux). Bring a wire brush for the top part of the climb. Route #13 in the photo.

Start at the left-facing inside corner 15 ft left of Trail Magic (See Photo). Climb the face just to the left of the corner, the corner and the cracks above (5.7).  When the crack ends [ALT] continue straight up on thin friction and crimpers (5.9 +/-?) until one reaches easier climbing, then move to the tree anchor at the top of Trail Magic. 

  ALTernate: Traverse left to "No Gear".  Finish on that route, or move up it 25-30 ft, then move up rightwards following a weakness (with some gear) to the top of "Trail Magic". (5.5-5.6)

Climb to the black streak and pass it on the right to a small sloping stance.  Step left and climb directly above the streak on steep face, over a small overlap to lower-angle face climbing.  Continue directly upward through tree branches toward bush.  Avoid bush and easier exit by bearing right up friction face over lichen at top.

Starting about 10-15 ft left of the left facing corner called "Arch of Delight," climb the face past a bolt hole (5.10)a small overhang whose seriousness should not be overlooked. Obviously once led, this is should only be top roped now.

START- At the far, far right end of the slab, close to where the trail first reaches the cliff.    Used to gain access to the top of the cliff.   Climb the staircase dike, taking care with leaves especially in the fall season, step right above the maple "bush" and finish on a bit of slab.     There is a climbing route that starts about 25ft LEFT of this dike and climbs pretty much straight up and ends just a few feet left of the top of the dike (as the dike line trends to the left.) It is protectable, just barely.  Be sure to take a gold Camalot.

This climb starts on a (usually) mossy slab just behind a small boulder. Climb the face past a small overlap with the help of the "Hand of God", to a small ledge/rest. (5.7+ / 5.8-)  Then step right following the crack. (5.7, maybe 5.7+)  When the crack terminates, continue climbing 30 ft up on easy ground to the trees. 

  Alt Finish: Rather then stepping right into the crack at the ledge/rest, climb the thin face on the left (see dashed line in photo).

Start on the face about 10 feet left of the popular crack climb "No Gear," whose top has a chopped bolt. Climb directly up; at a ledge with bushes move left and touch Unnamed#1 just below the top. This is route #12 in the below photo.

The Upper Ledges are likely the second tallest slab in CT next to West Rock State Park in New Haven. The Upper Ledge is basically broken down into two different sections, the Super Slab and the Trail Magic section. Super Slab contains routes from Class 4 Scramble to Arch of Delight (aka The Corner) and many many other variations. You can basically climb all over this slab without much regards for defined routes. To the left of Super Slab is the Trail Magic slab which contains the routes from Athlete's Feat to Quartz Wall.  The longest routes are on the Super Slab while the more leadable routes are on the Trail Magic slab.  

  The Upper Ledges are often used by large groups of toproping beginners, but there are plenty of slab routes to go around. 

  Appearances are deceiving, this large slab is well over 100 feet tall in places (especially on the right side).  A 60m rope will not always reach the bottom.  There are two common ways to access the top or walk off: 

  1)  Via a large gully to climber's right of the main slab. It looks easy and safe but, be warned, it can be treacherous especially when damp and full of leaves (all the time).   It's safer if you stick to climbers-right of the big boulder at the bottom.  As you near the top, exit the gully to the left onto a climbers path along the top of the slab. 

  2) Via Class 4 Scramble

Description

Protection

Routes in Upper Ledges