For Charlie is a straight up extension of

Tody Train

through a bouldery overhang with hard moves on small shallow pockets. Link up

Tody Train

with For Charlie for 36 meters and 17 bolts. A 70 meter rope will bring you down to the ground.

For Charlie

Olympus

Gato Negro

Hydropower

Hooking Lessons

Grunging for Slopers

Gray Matter

Freyja

Tsunami

Fool's Gold

Limbo

Thing Two

The Nomad

Hydrophobia

Watermusic

Just Say No to Shwag

The Zit

California Route

Eldorado

Orpheus

Beyond the Vail

The White Belly

Superfund Site

Miel Para los Simples Mortales

Tody Train

Ambrosia

Valhalla

Killer Whale

Madness Project

Medusa

Zero Degrees Kelvin

Renee’s Testpiece

The Power of Three

Thing One

Zero Degrees Kelvin Direct

This is a link-up. Climb the first half of

Ambrosia

, and finish right to

For Charlie’s

anchor. If you link up

Tody Train

with MPLSM, bring 17 quickdraws. Bring a lot of runners, especially for the beginning of

Tody Train

and for before and after the anchor. MPLSM is 16 meters, both routes together are 37 meters.

This is a third pitch and an extension of “

For Charlie

” with wild moves on steep rock.

Gato Negro climbs a hard roof mantel to a pumpy face.

Hydropower has 40 meters of awesomeness. It is one of the best sport routes in Telluride. Some call it 12+, others call it 13-.

Follow a steep slab to a dihedral ending in a steep, pocketed headwall. This has really excellent limestone-esque rock with pumpy climbing.

Climb chossy sloper pockets. Combine this with Gato Negro for full value.

Climb easy terrain through the first few bolts, and then go onto the steeper, grey face above. There is never a shortage of good holds - just don't pump out. It is a very nice pitch.

Freyja shares the first half with

Orpheus

. After the fourth long, fixed chain draw, go up and right through the white overhang.

Climb a runout, left-facing corner (8m). A Camalot could help here. There may be a better start to the right that you can protect with gear. Reach a big ledge with an anchor on it, then follow a thin, black streak.

This is a really great pitch that follows the tallest gold streak on the left side of the wall. The route starts with an easy slab, a few cruxes through the beginning of the headwall, then hang on for the steep pocketfest to the anchors. The pump sticks with you 'til the end.

Limbo is a link-up. Climb

Tody Train

, clip yourself to the anchor, and pull the rope to release that first pitch rope drag. Get yourself back on belay, and keep climbing up the first half of

Ambrosia

. Take a left to join

Beyond the Vail

for its last 3 bolts. Keep climbing

BTV

extension for two more bolts in steep and bouldery terrain, and once you reach The

White Belly’s

third pitch, skip that chain-draw (to avoid rope drag), and keep going up the

White Belly

to the anchor.

With an 80 meter rope, lower to the second anchor of the

White Belly

, and lower again from here.

Thing Two is short and steep with a great finish on limestone pinch holds.

Technical and slightly runout pebble pinching leads to a steep huecoed headwall.

Hydrophobia is a link-up of

Hydropower

to

Beyond the Vail

.

This 40 meter pumpfest is one of the best routes in Telluride. Start right of

Hydropower

in front of a small shrub. Don't be deterred by the quality of the first thirty feet — the rock gets better once you pull the roof.

The first four bolts were from an abandoned project and are older than 2012.

Just Say No to Schwag is a short one just right of the

California Route

.

The Zit is a short route. It climbs the first tier of rock and takes you right to the ledge where

Watermusic

starts.

An awesome pitch.  Goes up a weakness to the right, then up a sloping, left-facing arete, then back left onto the steeper gray wall on good holds all the way to the chains.

An easy start up through 3 bolts, then onto the steeper face; up the orange streak.

Orpheus is the route to the right of

Madness Project

. It goes through a big, diagonal roof. It has five fixed chain-draws. If you belay from the ledge, an 80m rope will take you down all the way to the trail.

This is a huge traverse that connects the best of

Watermusic

,

Hydropower

,

Grunging for Slopers

,

For Charlie

,

Ambrosia

, and The Power of Three/The Trinity. The end of the route is when you reach the route The Power of Three, when you clip a steel biner. It is fxed in its entirety with chain-draws. An 80 meter rope will bring you down to the ground.

This is one of the best routes in Telluride, an endurance beast. Alex Honnold onsighted the 2nd ascent.

The White Belly is an amazing route, especially the third pitch that climbs through the pocketed, white overhang. You can link up the first two pitches and the last two ones. P1: 5.11b, 11m, 5 bolts; P2: 5.10b, 19m, 6 bolts; P3: 5.12b, m, bolts; and P4: 5.10d, m, bolts.

This is the 3rd route (from the left) on the Streaked Wall. It is the leftmost route of the 3 prominent gold streaks. Climb an easy ramp with a few bolts, then go straight into the business on the gold streak. There are some glued holds and shitty rock at the beginning of the business... meh.

Gray Matter

is way better at about the same grade/difficulty.

Start on the right side of the big fallen flake. Ascend a hard roof to fun face climbing.

Start at the anchor of

Tody Train

, and go up and left through the white overhang full of pockets to a 6 foot roof finish. Link up

Tody Train

to Ambrosia for a marathonic 50 meter pitch and 25 bolts. Either way, once at the anchor of

Tody Train

, pull the rope to free it from the rope drag of that pitch or lower, and do it again on toprope, and unclip the draws in your way up. Use as many long draws as possible in the Ambrosia pitch, especially the one in the last roof.

Come down with two ropes or use an 80 meter rope, and lower twice. Ambrosia is 29 meters, and

Tody Train

(5.11d, 9 bolts) is 21 meters. This is the route that starts on a huge, fallen flake at the base of the wall. Remember to tie a knot at the end of the rope!!!

Valhalla is a steep, powerful route with an intense, hard crux right after the roof.

Killer Whale is a short route that shares an anchor with the first pitch of

The White Belly

.

This is a crazy route up a big roof, steep layback crack, bouldery belly, awesome overhang for 3 bolts, and a couple more bolts on vertical terrain.

Medusa is a third pitch, it starts in the second anchor of

The White Belly

and splits to the left from here. It goes through four overhangs. This steep section is fixed with chain draws.

Zero Degrees Kelvin climbs a thin start to nice pockets. It goes diagonally to the right after the first or second bolts and joins

Zero Degrees Kelvin Direct

.

Start just right of a flake, and go up and left.

Start at the anchor of the second pitch of

The White Belly

. From here, traverse right and up, and finish at the anchor of

Ambrosia

. There are two scary bolts in a huge, overhanging flake. Maybe it is actually not that scary, who knows? Anyways, I did a variation that skips those two bolts by going to the right and join

Ambrosia

for two bolts. I called it The Trinity, 5.12c, 3 stars.

Thing One is short and steep with a slopey sequence and shares anchor with

Thing Two

.

This uses a hard start to fun 5.10- climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Streaked Wall