This route on the right side of Illusion Crag is about 150 feet to the right of Spell Me. It climbs the right leaning finger crack ten feet to the left of the bolted line False Perception. About half way up, the crack jogs left and widens up.Rappel from the bolted station atop False Perception with two ropes or with a 70m you can get down by swinging on to the boulder on the climbers left but watch your ends!

Slight of Hand

Chameleon Pinnacle

Sensual

French Bulges

Who Deany

Morph Out

False Perception

Magician's Hat

Arm Forces

David Copperhead

Con Jurors

First Lady of Magic

Sensible

Sendable

Deez Guys

Mirage

Corner's Inquest

On the right side of Illusion Crags is the south facing buttress. Around the corner to the right, between the edge of the buttress and the Slight of Hand crack, is an alcove leading up to a roof with two cracks. This route starts at a pine tree and ascends the right crack through the roof and up the offwidth above.Belay from gear at the top then traverse right 20 feet to the False Perception anchor. Rappel from this bolted station with two ropes or with a 70m you can get down by swinging on to the boulder on the climbers left but watch your ends! 

A fun romp up good, solid rock with nice plate features.

 Start out on lighter colored rock, move up to the sweet varnished goodness.

 Route can be started at the same location as Morph Out, or, the nicer flat area of the Changeling to the right.  

 Fun!

Climb a tight dihedral starts with some good hand jams end with fingers stem your way up.  Build an anchor up top save some mid sized cams.

About thirty feet down and left from the start of Arm Forces is a smaller, less dramatic corner.  Climb this passing (not surprisingly) a few bulges en route to a large ledge.  Descend via a short scramble down the gully to the left.

This route climbs the wide, left leaning crack though a small roof on the left side of the main cliff, probably about 100 yards to the right of Arm Forces. At the top of the climb is an anchor with two cold shuts. Rappel with a single 60 meter rope.

Alcove in distinct left facing corner.  Crux is getting up through the alcove by trudging, stemming, chimneying until you can emerge to the corner above.  A bit strenuous but great fun. 

  Rappel from slings with single rope.

Very thin face climbing for 4 bolts, with a groundfall potential getting to the 2nd bolt.  Pull a bulge about halfway up on good holds (some are fragile), to another thin section.  The top section takes small gear but the climbing isn't as hard as the bottom.

This route is located on the far left side of the Illusion Crags, about 15 feet right of French Bulges in a prominent right facing corner that features three roofs. The route starts on a small belay ledge at a yucca, just below some bushes. Ascend the corner, working some cracks on the left side and then pull the roofs. Very fun.There is a two bolt anchor on the ledge above the third roof. You can rappel off the route, preferably with a single 70 meter rope - just watch your ends! Also watch out when you pull your rope, there is a high potential for snagging it in a crack.There is also a very easy walk off, immediately to the climber's left (south) of the bolted anchor on the top-out ledge. Follow cairns down and traversing southward into the gulley. This gulley returns you to the base of the route.

This route shares the same start as Who Deany before crossing left and shooting up the arete on the far left side of the main face of the Illusion Crags.  

  Climb the Who Deany crack for around 10 feet until you can traverse left for 15 feet in a horizontal crack to the arete. Climb straight up past a overhanging vertical crack - the exposure here is surprising for a 5.8 route. Head up easier terrain to the top.  

  This route shares the two bolt anchor that is on top of Who Deany. Rappel with a single rope. 

  Direct start variation: climb the arete straight up from the ground (5.10).

Avoids lower seam by a scramble up+right, then back left along a ledge. From there straight up crack to sling anchor, then past bush to obvious right-leaning crack in upper varnish. Follow this to a bolted anchor.

First Lady of Magic climbs the corner that curves to the left forming the arch 5 feet right of Who Deany. Ascend the corner until you can reach right and pull up, on to the face. Climb up to a bolt and then head right a bit to a small ledge. Fire up the obvious crack to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes. 

  A single rope rappel can be done to the anchors on top of Who Deany to the climber's left, followed by another single rope rap to the ground.

Climb the corner crack to the roof, possibly also using the crack on the right as well.  Pull the roof and build an anchor.

3 lines right of Sensible. 1 wide looking crack, 1 topropable face on granite-hard rock, and a thin crack also on bullet varnish. Lead the cracks (the thin one is necky) or top rope all 3 from the same anchor you build.  A nice way to add a quick 100 feet of climbing without leaving the alcove.

This route is located about 30 feet right of the wide Who Deany crack and is just to the left of a dirty chimney. Wander up the black varnish (scant pro) heading for a small right facing dihedral 40 feet up. Pass a bulge (crux) and shoot up the thin crack to the top. 

  Belay from a sling around a boulder then rappel from bolts with a single rope to the top of Who Deany (passing the anchors for First Lady of Magic) followed by another single rope rap to the ground.

Ten feet to the right of Arm Forces, climb a wide crack and pass through a weakness in the large overhang.  Easy climbing continues up and right to a large ledge.  To descend, scramble up and right to the top of a gully.  A short rappel from the large pine tree leads to the broken lower gully.

Fifteen feet to the right of Mirage is a blunt arete formed by the outside corner.  Climb this feature, eventually joining Mirage for the last few feet to the belay ledge.  Descend the gully to the right.

Several classic single pitch trad routes can be found here at Illusion Crags. The routes on the left side face almost south and the routes continue around to the main cliff that faces east. The routes on the left generally have walkoffs, and on the main face the routes usually feature rappel anchors - these are long pitches and two ropes may be required to rap. Most of the first ascents out here were by Joe Herbst and friends.

Description

Protection

Routes in Illusion Crags