Work up onto a broad ledge and then staying right along the arête, pull up through the large bulges. These holds are awesome.

Reach up onto the large scoop and find one of the best hidden holds in all of Split Rock. From the scoop, pull up onto the steep upper face using small but rough holds that seem to always be where you need them.

Once on the upper face, be sure to look over the edge on the right; nice right?

Work upwards and once you reach the crack follow it to the left. Take the crack and its associated ledge system to the top and a two-bolt anchor.

Why Go Left

The Return of the Fern

Foxtrot

The Dog's Bone

Cadence's Climb

Why Go Right

King Swing

Dogs back traverse

Tango

Aerial Dogfight

The Dog's Ear

Where the Green Fern Grows

Whiskey, (Formerly Tree Squeeze)

The Dog's Nose

Walk the Plank

Flight of Fancy (AKA: The Dog's Eye)

Named as it was put up just before Christmas 2017. The route starts on solid and large holds and works easily up to the famous green fern. Pass over the fern on solid holds and find a great side and under-cling at the bulge. Once you pull the bulge, work your way up the headwall on small but super positive crimps. Near the top the difficulties ease as you find large holds leading you to the shared anchor with "Why Go Left".

Steep on the bottom and slabby up on top. Follow good holds low down, make a long reach towards the bulge, and pull up onto the upper slab. Follow the slab to the two-bolt anchor on top.

This route starts up to the left of the arete, using small crimpers and sloping feet. Work up and left to the edge of the arete and the top of a prominent sloping edge. Mantle onto the ledge then work left up the edge of the arete, using small feet on the face and hands near and above the arete edge. Once near the top of the face, pull over the lip to shared anchors with Walk the Plank.

The easiest way to get to the top of the spire. Fun boulder moves off the ground lead to a big ledge. From the ledge, stick to the arête on your right and work past ledge systems with the crux happening 2/3 of the way up. Grab the arête edge and pull up to the top and the two-bolt anchor.

This climb shares the same beginning as Why Go Left but heads right once on the upper face. Same as Why Go Left, work up onto a broad ledge and then pull up through the large bulges. Reach up onto the large scoop and find one of the best hidden holds in all of Split Rock.

From the scoop, pull up onto the steep upper face using small but rough holds that are always in the right place. Once on the face, be sure to look over the edge on the right. Nice huh?

Work upwards and once you reach the crack follow it to the right. Follow small holds rightwards up the headwall and to the summit of the spire where you will find a two-bolt anchor.

Start by stepping on a small ledge and find a mix of side clings and crimpers. After clipping the first bolt, take on the crux by pulling up and small holds and high feet. Find good holds past this initial crux. Pull onto the upper face on positive holds reaching the anchor at the edge of the lip.

Start left side and traverse all the way across. Crux in the middle, much easier before and after. Crux is standing on the shelf using a triangluar gaston, two finger pocket with thumb catch and two finger crimp then throwing to the side pull

Low traverse on the shelf is V3

Middle traverse V4-5

High traverse V4

The lower part of the climb is the crux. Few, but good holds, lead you up and left, staying left of the bulge and right of the large ledge system. Pull over the bulge and find yourself on slabby terrain leading to the two-bolt anchor.

Wicked technical climbing up a steep and very 3D wall. The route has three cruxes with a good rest between each. It's hard to grade this route, the moves are extremely technical so it feels 5.13 when you first get on it, but starts to feel almost like 5.12b once you've refined and memorized every move into submission. Be patient unlocking this route and it will reward greatly!

Crux 1: Climb an obtuse dihedral; chimney to wicked drop knees. Crux 2: Pull past a jug and get into an ass jam (flexing your right butt cheek on the last jug) to clip the fifth bolt. A wild double gaston campus move sets you up to get your feet up high to pull into an undercling rail. From here, you can muscle up, or move right to a ledge and do a few relaxing stemming moves with your back to the wall. Crux 3: Sloping/overhanging hand traverse 9' protected by a fatty 1/2" bolt with fixed draw. Chain anchor with lower off biners.

Starting on the northwest corner of The Spire, work up the arete up and right. Pass a prominent bulge, using side pulls on the arete and feet on the overhanging face. About half way up find a terrific jug right on the edge of the arete. As the route becomes more overhanging, work up to a prominent gendarme on the arete and pull over the edge to the slabby face of the north side. Climb the last 15 feet to the anchors, shared with "Why Go Right."

Start to the right of the shallow corner, working to the top of the first ledge, seeing the famous “Green Fern” on your way.

Find good holds in the corner proper that lead to the top of the corner itself. Once on the top of the corner, step left and out onto the steep face.

Find small holds that lead up to a great hold just below the arête edge. Use good holds that lead to a two-bolt anchor.

Do an easy mantle onto a huge shelf. Clip the bolt and take care not to hit your head on the tree branch going up. The crux is maneuvering the second mantle over the bulge. Thoughtful and fun slab climbing takes you to the anchors.

A pretty fun way to ascend the west face. From the large boulder leaning against face, step up and reach for the first ledge system. Work from ledge to ledge until you reach a steep corner on your right. Using small holds, edge your way up the corner to just below an enormous roof. From just below the roof, move up and right onto the large ledge and a good rest spot. From the large ledge, pull the roof straight up and soar up the final headwall to a two bolt anchor.

To start this climb, there are two options; "walk the plank", following the base of the maple tree to the edge of the arête. Step up onto the first ledge and clip the first bolt. OR work up the arête from the ground below the tree and squeeze between the rock and tree, ending up on the large ledge.

From the first ledge, reach up to the next ledge and pull the crux of the climb trying your best to mantle up. Once on the second ledge, follow nice holds on bullet proof rock, sticking to the arête and ending at a two bolt anchor.

A few nice reaches lead to a roof with a one big mean reach past an undercling pocket. The crux is the next move, enjoy!

The route was really tough to bolt with several sections of unboltable rock, in the end it worked out really well, but the second bolt is a tad left, and the anchor is way left, which adds another bit of excitement as you discover how to clip it. Expect some really exciting air time if you biff the anchor clip!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Spire