The bolts are a little farther apart but the cruxes on the two smaller bulges are protected.  There are TRs off both sides of the top (left 5.9/5.10 and right 5.10/5.11).

Grab Them By the Crookshanks

I Must Not Tell Lies

Cactus Butt

One Way Ticket to Azkaban

Rattle Face

Rattle Crack

Left var. Cactus Butt

Not Slytherin

Whomped Willow

Right var. Cactus Butt

Wands At The Ready

I'm Not Dead Yet

This Way to Platform 9 3/4

Bring Out Your Dead

Basilisk

Wingardium Leviosa

The crux is the entry to the upper crack.  The last half of the route is quite easy.

The crux is steep climbing over two bolts to a good stance and more fun climbing to the top.  There are TR variations on both sides.  The left is about 5.8 and the right about 5.10+.

Climb just right of I must Not Tell Lies, step left to the top of the column, and then continue up the nice face to the shared anchor

Simply climb the lower angle face, about 5.7 to the first anchor.  One can extend Rattle Face for another 25 feet by climbing to the Basilisk anchor (about 5.8).

The hardest portion of the climb is where the crack goes left.  Historically the climb had a short second pitch.

The TR joins Cactus Butt at about the third bolt.

Face climb up to a short crack, pull the bulge on good holds (the crux) and continue up the easier upper face.

Balance up slabby face hold to a short bulge, grab a short horn and pull up, the crux, and finish on more face climbing.  One can TR an easier line a little to the left of the primary route.

Follow the weakness slightly right and then traverse left into Cactus Butt at about the second bolt.

The run is on the face in the middle of the climb.  There is a bit of a run between bolts 5 and 6 but the climbing is quite positive.

Climb the left to right crack just right of Bring Out Your Dead.

Face climb straight up the slab.  There are a few harder moves above the second bolt which can be bypassed on the left for an easier climb.

The route boasts fun movement on good rock.  The crux, at least two approaches, is above the second bolt.

Climb up a large leaning flake and stay on the edge of a flat panel with stemming moves on the right of the large crack.  The crux is about a third of the way up the climb.

The route goes up a right to left crack system (right of the wide Basilisk crack) and then straight up to the anchors.  Take care to protect where possible on the upper section.

This area is a few hundred yards up the road from Luna Park on the east side of the road.  Historically there were at least two climbs:  Rattle Crack (trad crack) and Cactus Butt (TR).  Trees provide a shady belay stance on generally flat ground.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Park