Wild laybacking and kneebarring marks the start of this bouldery route - kinda desperate but oh so satisfying. Pull up to a good stance, shake out, then fire the crux, which is thin and very hard to read. Everything sucks and faces the wrong direction ;) Finish with fun moves on bullet stone.

This is a super worthy route that deserves more traffic. The double kneebar no-hander is reason enough! Get pitted!!!

Turbo Diesel

The Chopper

Irked Arete

Family Outing

Car Killer Crack

There is surprisingly cool climbing on this obscure gem of route. This rig probably rarely gets done, but it deserves way more traffic! Steep, mostly juggy climbing with a couple cryptic moves here and there lead to a wild "Chopper" flake that is amazingly solid. Creative movement past this feature lead to a couple more balancy moves then some nice jugs and an anchor.

A mellow start leads to balancy, sequential moves on a sharp arete feature. Mantel onto a stance, shake out, and then hit the second crux on thin crimps and smeary feet.

The route is a little contrived, because you can move left for easier climbing at a couple points, especially at the upper crux, but if you stay on the arete the whole time, it's a really fun, balancy line.

BTW, one of the many routes where the guidebook photo is wrong. The anchor is up and right - stay on the arete as long as possible looking for a bolted anchor on the right side - shared with Rubber Soul, a gear 5.8.

An excellent pitch up a steep wall with great holds.  Follow a trail right of

Car Killer Crack

and find a nice, well-fractured area.  Climb cracks / dihedrals to a bolted anchor.

Climb the crack / dihedral system facing the road - this is the first route you see as you walk up the road.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Car Killer Buttress