Starts on Henry Barber, but once under the ceiling traverse left into a line of dilapidated, corroded relics of bolts with homemade hangers leading out the roof. Free line looks largely improbable and would require hardware replacement.  

Sistine Grapple

Pete Cleveland

Henry Barber

The Twenty Dollar Lesson

10ish feet upriver from the shared start of Henry Barber and Sistine Grapple, find the crack system that diagonals up to the left of the huge capstone. follow the crack up to the capstone, traverse eight feet left, over a chimney, and along an offwidth crack to a ledge. 

Slimestone dream line working up the left buttress of the Sistine Grapple. Start with the two jug pockets and work up the face to the jug lined lip of the ceiling - including a telephone handle rest along the way. If you're on an unaesthestic hold, you're doing it wrong.There appears to be an open painted red dot at the base of the line - waiting for its Rotpunkt still. Namesake for the route is the pillar and patron saint of Midwestern climbing - Pete Cleveland: https://www.sdpb.org/blogs/arts-and-culture/the-down-to-earth-rock-god/.."not to sugar coat this route, but I feel pretty sugar coated in dirt right now. It'll clean up nicely." - first modern ascent 21'

Start up the obvious left facing dihedral crack, navigating a techy crux to regain the finger to fists crack above ending at a prominent ledge. Next take an airy hard right out on the face on decent jugs to exit over the top at the far right edge of the ceiling. Mind the loose rock. Ferguson guide calls it "very difficult, to religious!"

Archway-cave-alcove topped by a mega horizontal roof. Land of vultures and hard(wo)men.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sistine Grapple