The opening moves are the fun of this route and also the crux. A cheater block is often placed for the start of this climb, feel free to move them out of the way and enjoy the opening moves. The rest of the route is straight up with solid large holds. Overall this is a fun little route, one of my personal favorites and one of the better routes in the park.

Five Finger Arete

Trigger Finger

Five Finger Traverse

Start on the right edge of the West face of Five Finger Block, traverse left across the lower face towards Five Finger Arete Route, the opposing arete.  Avoid using the ledge system that forms and keep to the face.  The crux is towards the end of the traverse.

High ball boulder problem with incredible jugs.  Start with the ticks marks. Climb up the middle and shoot for the ever-so-slightly overhung crown to top out. Nice grip on the crown, ladder walk your feet to get over the edge. 

Five Finger Block's west face is clean and for the Mills this face sees some of the most sunlight in the entire park. After a big rain it is usually the first to dry up along with being the first to thaw in the spring. Bolts are located on the North side of the West face for around 20-30 foot TR climbs. The rest of the block can be bouldered with numerous variations and top-outs, some bad falls and a pad is helpful. Head to the north end where a small boulder sits on a ledge for easy down climbs or to set up a TR. This is a great place to warm up or for beginners. It is typically a less crowded block.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Five Finger Block