This awesome pitch follows the obvious hanging crack system, located 20' climbers' left of

Lunch Box Special

. Begin with a short face section (25'), and use an incipient crack (1"-3" gear) and single bolt for protection (5.10+). Gain small ledge below

LBS

crack, and climb this crack through small, left-facing roof/corner for 25' (5.10-). Traverse left at the second protection bolt and enter the Superette crack (5.10-). Follow this radness for 60', and look for locker fingers (3/4"-1" gear, 5.11) with an easing hand section above (2"-3" gear, 5.9/.10-).

The upper finger crack protects mainly with 1" Friends, red Aliens or 0.5 Camalots. Despite this bigger finger size, the crack is locker fingers because of how it's offset or tilted and a few good rests make it easier 5.11. This is a MUST DO!

Superette

Rope Master's Crack

Lunch Box Special

Air Time

Bearded Lunch Lady

Arm and Hammer

Bat Master

Rizla's Crack

Easy-Wider

Redemption Arete

Spooky Tooth

A Walking Enigma

The Groove Tube

High Time

Climb the slab under the archway and roof via edges, crimps, and slopers past 6 bolts.

Climb hands to OW in obvious, widening crack.

Climb a short corner (the same as

Groove Tube

and

A Walking Enigma

) 5.9 to gain a left-facing corner to high ledge (5.10). It has fun jammin' and stemming up top.

Follow cross-bedding and a mosaic of desert varnished face holds up the less than vertical face to the top of 90' foot pillar. The first ascent party followed hand crack to the left before hopping on the face and drilling on lead. Rookie hooking lead to big whippers and the name :) 2 additional bolts were later added to the bottom. The technical crux is at the bottom (first 10') with a fun mental crux at the top. Good times all around!

Start 10 feet right of

A Walking Enigma

, and follow a short corner to flake (5.9/10). Follow bolts up and right into short crack(5.9, 1/2"-2/3" inch). Do rad, footless mantels on center of arete (5.11-) before joining last four bolts and the final crack of

A Walking Enigma

(5.10+). This is super fun and a foot burn by the end!

Climb varnished edges and pockets past 11 bolts and a few runouts. The cruxes are near bolts 2, 4 and 9.

Climb this splitter crack past 2 bolts through bulge until seem widens (5.12+ or AO), then the crack quickly widens through short OW and fun hand/fist jams until it narrows again for awesome finger crack finish(5.10+).

A free ascent requires throws to grim crimps down low but locker jams and foot holds await up top:)

Climb a right-facing corner (5.10) past blocks and small ledge before it joins another wider, arching corner (5.10+). Fist jams and wide hands bring you to a high ledge and a two bolt anchor.

Climb the right side of a large block by doing short and well protected layback move (5.7). After surmounting block, leave a small ledge and climb arete past 5 bolts (5.7-). There is great exposure if you stay left and on the arete.

Climb a short splitter and corner (.9+) with finger jams before heading left up a larger, arching, finger hand crack (.10a). A large, loose block halfway up freaked out the FA party, but if trundled, this could become a great route!

Climb

Groove Tube

for 30 feet before moving right onto face holds. Clip 8 bolts and join hand/finger crack  to anchor. The crux is on the face on deceivingly sloping holds and high-step edges.

Climb a short, right-facing corner (5.9), gain a ledge, and then follow an awesome, shallow corner or groove (5.10) to near the top of the wall before traversing right (5.9) to hand and finger crack which leads to anchor.

Begin just right of "

Rope Master's Crack

," and follow bolts until crack widens enough for gear (5.8). You can step left to the anchor for "

Air Time

" and the "

RMC

" or follow crack over subtle bulge (5.9+), placing small wires and micro cams. The crack then widens, and good stemming makes it a lot easier to the top (5.9).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in G. Pumphouse Right